Jerry

[thedogofwar]

I'm gonna be looking for some input on an electrical panel for the new tank. I want to run 2 dedicated lines to it. You up to helping me figure it out?

[jerryc]

Layout year load and we'll go from there no big deal

[thedogofwar]

cool!

year? of the house? hmm, old but the guy said when they recently redid some things, they had were required to meet the latest codes.

I'll work on layout and load, you need that in AMPs correct?

So can I go from the main house connection and run a completely new breaker panel? Sry, electric is my weaker point. Who would need to do that if it's possible? Could an electrician do it or would I need to contact Entergy for that part? I want safety and redundancy and want it all new if possible. I don't want to rely on existing wiring.

thanx for your help.

[jerryc]

ok if the house was recently rebuild to code you should be
able to add a couple 20 amp circuits to the existing elect painel
you need a electrician run 2 separate 20 amp circuits to
GFI receptacles close to your new tank location the Other
we can DIY for you as needed that way you can use one
circuit for lighting your major load . the other for the
rest of the tank

[thedogofwar]

GREAT, I think I'm gonna go with 3 circuits the 3rd is to arrange a circuit that will be connected to the emergency backup.

then like you said, 1 for lights and the 2nd for heaters/pumps & access that will not be backed up. everything on 3 will be switchable to the emergency backup. The fuge return pump, heater and prob an air pump.

I'd like to throw a couple indicator lights on the panel as well just for quick check of power at the panel. NP right? and if I get an electrician to place the outlets, we can rig the panel up so it just plugs into these outlets via 3 external plug/cords and is moveable right?

[jerryc]

Right did you get Danny's timers and such a long with it

[thedogofwar]

No but now that you mention it, I might want to go ahead and get those too. I have several but I might be needing a couple more. Do those use additional power I need to account for?
and how about rigging those so they don't steal the outlets, because you know they are a pain sometimes blocking outlets. Go figure, I had just completed my layout.

[jerryc]

I Would use cords and plugs.just arange everything under
stand use cords to go to GFIs that way if you get
ready to move all you have to do is unplug and move

[thedogofwar]

What do you think about this Jerry? ACad was screwing up a bit, the lights circuit line should go to the indicator light like the others and the breaker on the backup circuit should extend to the switched backup. I don't know why but acad isn't putting those lines in when I plot to jpg.

the breakers are probably overkill but If I can have them, I would like to go ahead and add them, just in case a later scenario might require them. Space allowing I'll prob add a couple more outlets with timer ability.

oh and I guess I forgot to connect the receptacles in each circuit, but I know that needs done, except for the timed ones. jeez what a screwup I am, the switched backup also plugs into the backup circuit receptacle, not hard wired.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/36585ELECTRIC_PANEL-Model.jpg

[jerryc]

Im no good at drawing.:rolleyes: but theis is the way i set up
min material coust around $40.

My pic did not post but you got the approximate same


I used a commercial timer about 38.00
cord and cordcap 6.00
Recept- and box about 2.00
you can use more as you
need

[jerryc]

Im going to setup 3 like theis for the 55 but with 4/plex recept-http://img44.photobucket.com/albums/v134/jerryc2/05.jpg

[thedogofwar]

ok, I'm hoping to put it all into one box, I'm going to do things the right and neat way this time. We're moving and I'll have more spending cash now. Not as nice a place but more $ until I start building a house.

However, Do you see any reason why I can't run 15A components? I'd go ahead with 20A in the main box but make the ones in the tank panel 15A and use 15A receptacles and switches. I'm not getting anywhere near 15A, let alone 20A. Lights will be 8A max and thats assumming an additional 2 vhos. Theres just a huge difference in price that I can't see a reason for spending if it's not necessary.

oh and I think I want to add switches to each outlet.

[jerryc]

THE 15 WILL BE OK BUT I use the 20A far THE GFI after that
JUST USE standard RECEPT- YOU CAN GET FOR 50. THE GFI
will protect THE ONES beyond IT

[thedogofwar]

Double receptacles, duplex I think they're called, they can't be wired so that each plug can be switched seperately can they?

I'm also finding these levitron GFCI pass throughs that I can put inside the panel, Cheaper and then i don't have to leave the GFCI receptacles behind.

[jerryc]

Yes you just need a switch for each one


The GFI strips if you get the good ones or ok and you can
use a 1.80 20a recept in wall

[thedogofwar]

how do I know whats good and not? Price? I don't want to skimp on quality in this area but too much overkill only costs me $. I can always add on and upgrade if I need more power one day. I will go with the best CGFIs because of price though. Should I bother shopping at Home Depot for a good GFCI?

[jerryc]

they would be all right i get the ones we use at work from
electrical supply just look for UL stamp