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Mdwannabe
04/08/2004, 06:39 PM
OK Folks:

I am following all input given (much to the boss, read wife's, chagrin), as far as lighting is concerned. I had no idea depth of tank was going to effect lighting cost so much, but live and learn. I guess this is what happens when ordering a custom tank is nothing more than talking numbers on the phone, untill you pick it up and it takes 6 people to carry it.
Now as far as the DSB is concerned, what does newest technology say, set up anaerobic chamber under South Down, or just put several inches of South Down in tank floor followed by live sand? Should screen be put between South Down layers (as Berlin method suggested)?

General tank specs are as follows, PLEASE provide any input as this start up has to go right or I (not coral) will be living in the tank on the street outside my house.....LOL

TANK DIMENSIONS................59" Long X 24" Wide X 31" High

SUMP SIZE/FLOW..................28 Gallons/750 GPH (at my pump head)

RECIRCULATION FLOW..........(2) 350 GPH Magnatec pumps (set up on X10 controlled wave maker macro, yes I wrote it). OH, buy the way I was called last night by X10 and asked to become a Beta tester for their newest Software and Interface. I will let everyone know how testing goes!

LIGHTING................................(3) 400 Watt 20,000K Metal Halide bulbs firing off at 15 minute intervals to simulate sun up. What are opinions of (2) 20,000 K and (1) 10,000 K for this tank? (I have NO experience with metal halide, and just to make it fun I AM BLUE/GREEN COLOR BLIND!, but the boss is not and I doubt the corals are either.......LOL
Sun down will be followed by X10 (firecracker controlled) LED moonlights (JAVA script for those who understand what that is)......no offense intended!

PROTEIN SKIMMER..................ETS

CALCIUM REACTOR..................KORALLIN

TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER.....Medussa with chiller

Your input is welcomed. Look forward to seeing/meeting all of you.

Rick
:fish2: :fish1:

Sir Knight
04/08/2004, 08:05 PM
Rick,
Nice tank.
Before I will try to help I still need a few questions answered.

1) how long do you plan on having the tank up
2) what kind of corals do you plan on keeping
3) is the tank reef ready
4) do you have the equipment that you have named

fishdoc11
04/08/2004, 10:32 PM
As far as a sand bed the latest thinking seems to be moving away from a plenum or even a DSB to a 1" or 2" sandbed or a bare bottom( I started reading about several people going this way again and it kind of shocked me, I guess it is easier to clean). Personally I prefer a 1.5" - 3" layer of aragonite. I think this eliminates the dangers of a BSB and still provides for aneorobic filtration(nitrate reuction). As far as lighting color check out the tank of the month. He has 20k and 10k MH mixed. This mix IMO gives the best of both worlds(20k's for coloration of corals and 10k's for growth and to balance the light making it pleasing to the eye). Also check out JB NY's website www.cnidarianreef.com for PAR ratings of various lamps and how they run on different ballasts.
Chris

Mdwannabe
04/08/2004, 11:14 PM
Joe:
#1) 75 has been up for 6+ years, I intend on this one being up as long or longer.
#2) SPS, LPS, and typical soft corals (polyps...ect)
#3) tank is reef ready with 2 built in overflows
#4) Presently have all equiptment but lights, still researching best combo.

Chris:
thanks I will check out the site, I did check out tank of the month which is what spawned the 2-20,000/1-10,000 question. Being color blind does not help situation. What looks good to me normally does not to others, including the boss.

Thanks Guys
Look forward to more input, it helps

Sir Knight
04/08/2004, 11:53 PM
Rick,

The reason I asked about how long you are planning on keeping this tank up a running is because of the DSB question.

If you are willing to work on the sand bed or have it up for less than 5 years then go with the DSB. You will at some point need to start replacing portions of it. If not than I would recommend either a bare bottom tank. In this type of setup I would recommend a refug. Or what Chris stated will work fine as long as you don't have any sand sifter fish.

The size of your sump should be OK. I think if your tank has 2 overflows you are looking at about 1200 GPH turnover, so your return pump maybe a little small.

You may also want to consider increasing your overall water movement, it is low for your size tank and what you are planning to keep. I would recommend at least 3400 GPH.

Lighting I will not comment on except to say that 3 - 400 watters should work great for you and your tank(I like Blue but it's up to you), 20000k, 10000k or a mix will work.

Hope this helps

fishdoc11
04/09/2004, 09:01 AM
I thought about mentioning this but I think what Joe wants to say about lighting is you will get overall better coral coloration out of using only 20k bulbs. Personally I like a little more white mixed in with this but I am willing to sacrifice levels of coloration in some corals. I have many corals under 10K's that are colored up beutifully but I also have several that have come from under 20k's or VHO's with alot of atinic that turn brown or don't look nearly as nice as they did when I got them. If you will follow the sps keepers forum you will find so many arguements for both sides it will make your head spin. Bottom line is it is what you like best. Also when one purchases corals it pays to take note of what kind of lighting they were kept under. For example reefermadness and Dr Mac keep their corals under 20k's. ORA and o2manyfish keep theirs under sunlight in greenhouses. I think with a mix you will retain most color but this is purely speculation on my part. Joe however has actually tried all these bulb combinations farming corals so his advice comes from first hand knowledge. As you can see this is a very complicated and confusing subject with many different opinions.
Chris

Mdwannabe
04/10/2004, 05:00 PM
Hey Chris:

Just got back from EB, finally worked out a deal with Sean, I now have two of the three 400 w MH I require. Still searching for best price on third. Just thought you would like to know I put a deposit on "Mother", sure she will look good in the new tank if it ever gets set up. Waiting is very hard to do.... hood should be done next week, but I have heard that before.

See Ya:
Rick

fishdoc11
04/10/2004, 07:58 PM
Rick,
Glad to hear Mother finally found a home. She should color up nicely under those lights. Did'nt know they still had that set of halides, there was a good price on them when I saw them.
Chris

reewik
04/12/2004, 06:55 PM
I asked for a price and never did get a reply. I guess persistance pays off. :O)

Mdwannabe
04/15/2004, 03:57 PM
Eric:

Sorry for the late reply, but I never got a thread reply message. Just to let you know (and hopefully make you feel better) money was not involved. We worked out a trade and barter deal. :-)

Chris:

Hood still not done, but when working with a 70+ year old cabnet maker, I guess you just wait...and wait... and wait. Though, I am assuming the old school way of constructing the hood is worth the wait. We will see.

See Ya Saturday:
Rick

reewik
04/15/2004, 05:12 PM
No big deal here. i was actually pricing them a poss purchase if the price was right that is...

JB NY
04/23/2004, 09:19 PM
Hi Rick,

Sorry it took me so long to get on this thread I've been super busy.

Lighting. I'd go with 250 DE with PFO or SLS DE reflectors. With the 250 DE you will get so much more light than 400 SE MH.

I still like a sand bed. And as of right now it's still the best way to keep nitrates a low a possible. I don't think you will go wrong with the sand bed, if you like the look.

Might want to think about the softies with SPS, normally they don't mix well. If you do mix em up, run carbon and do regular water changes.

Again sorry for the late reply.