MARS Protein Skimmer DIY Design Feedback

[Brian Prestwood]

OK, so it seems like everone wants protein skimmers. The MARS skimmer is based on the Dutch Aquarium Systems EX/BX design...

DAS EX/BX Skimmers (http://www.dutchaquarium.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=bx)

Here is the MARS version (please pardon the mess)...

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/Skimmer.JPG

It works great...

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/Skimmer%20Filled%20Chamber.JPG

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/Skimmer%20Skimmate.JPG

Here are some closeups...

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/Skimmer%20Pump%20Taps.JPG

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/Skimmer%20Needle%20Valve.JPG

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/Skimmer%20Venturi.JPG

This is an aspirating venturi design. That means the venturi goes on the intake side of the pump instead of the exhaust side.

The main difference between the MARS version and the DAS version is that the pump exhuaust tap is tangential to the chamber housing. This causes a whirlpool effect in the housing that suspends the bubbles in solution longer.

Also, the MARS design works in-sump or out. DAS has two distinct designs for in and out.

This design is similar to many popular skimmers on the market today. As with most aspirating venturi designs, the pump only circulates the water-air mixture within the reaction chamber. Another pump is needed to circulate water between the tank and the skimmer. I put a "T" with a valve on my main sump-tank circulation loop.

The water level in skimmers is the critical adjustment. This skimmer uses a popular design. If you look closely at the complete skimmer picture you'll see a white PVC tube running from the the bottom the skimmer up. It has a "T" about halfway up. That is the return to the tank. The tap for water from the tank is on the other side. When the tank to skimmer recirc loop is on and the air is off the water level in the chamber is at the "T". You can make fine adjustments by increasing or decreasing the water flow. When the air is on the chamber fills to the top.

A word of warning. When using the skimmer out of the sump it should really sit right next to the sump so the exhaust water can drain directly into the sump. If you have a lot of elbows like I do it gets a little tricky to get an even flow rate back to the sump. Bubbles tend to cause restrictions in the return which raises the water level in the chamber which causes foam outs.

If you look closely at the pictures I provided you will see that the venturi is mounted on the exhaust side of the pump, not the intake side. I did this because I wanted to use my spare 1200 GPH GENX MAK 4 pump. Unfortunately, when the venturi was mounted on the intake side of this pump I couldn't restrict the air enough to prevent it foaming out the top of the 5' reaction chamber!!! So, I mounted the venturi on the intake side. Now it creates a manageable amount of foam. Conclussion, decrease the flow rate of the pump or increase the height of the reaction chamber.

The pump is the tricky part. It must be properly tapped for the venturi. The last time we built skimmers we designed for pumps that came with special impellers that whip the water and air mixture in the reaction champer up. These pumps are expensive unreliable and unnecessary. So, they are out.

I'm leaning toward the MAG pumps. The intake-exahust ports on most of them are the same. Therefore, the taps in the reactor would be the same for most of them. This would give us a lot of flexiblity in choosing pumps.

What say you?

Design improvements?

[headshrink]

I have no experience in this area... but I'm listening :)
Taging along.

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

I like the way you built your collection cup. Mine is labor intensive. Grinding the stop out is a lot simpler than building mine. Do you know where we can get that 2" F to 4" F coupler?

[Brian Prestwood]

I'm having second thoughts on the tangential injection. As you can see from the salt creep on mine, it is hard to get a good seal. Also, the MAG pumps have center aligned exhaust-intake ports that would make this even more difficult.

I don't think the benefit of longer suspension justifies the additional difficulty and leak risk.

[Brian Prestwood]

Some members at Rich's moonlight DIY asked about making a hang-on version of this skimmer. It would be easy to modify the design to be hang on.

The picture of the needle valve show a plexi-glass collar between the top of the chamber and the collection cup. The exhast vent is tie wrapped to it.

We would extend that collar a bit on one side then glue another piece of plexi-glass to the bottom to form an "L" shape. Viola, instant hang-on model. Maybe we'll build them all that way from now on.

The skimmer is a little under 5" in dia. You'll need about 5.5" clearance between the tank and the wall if you hang it there.

Some of you may notice the collar is held in place with a slip fit 4" M to 2" F coupler. To make maitenance simpler, I have not glued mine in. I've removed it about 10 times. Each time I have to turn the skimmer upside down and hit the bottom side of the collar with a hammer to get the slit fit out. I don't think there is any risk of the slip fit coming loose from the weight of a the chamber on a typical hang on model.

[Brian Prestwood]

24" tall skimmer suitable for 50 - 135 gal reef tank: $170

36" tall skimmer suitable for 80 - 180 gal reef tank: $215

12" Tall Foam Generation Chamber ($100)...
Bottom 4" Dia. Cap: $5
12" 4.5" Dia. Acrylic Tubing: $10
Middle 4" Dia. Female Ship - Male Threaded Coupler: $5
1/2" Venturi: $17
1/4" Needle Valve: $10
1/4" X 2" Vynal Tubing: $3
MAG 5 Pump: $50

12" Tall Contact Chamber (approx. $40)...
12" X 4.5" Dia. Acrylic Tubing: $10
Middle 4" Dia. Female Ship - Male Threaded Coupler: $5
Middle 4" Dia. Male Threaded - Female Slip Coupler: $5
Top 4" Dia Female Slip - Female Slip Coupler: $5
Collar Plexi-Glass: $2
Top 4" Dial. Male Slip - 2" Dia. Female Slip Coupler: $5
Misc Parts: $8

Collection Cup ($20)...
8" Long 2" Dia. Acrylic Tubing: $5
4" Dia. Female Slip to 2" Dia. Female Slip Coupler: $5
4" Dia. Cap: $5
Misc Parts: $5

36" Tall Skimmer Add Ons: $45
12" More 4.5" Dia. Acrylic Tubing Adds: $10
3/4" Venturi Adds: $2
MAG 9.5 Pump Adds: $30
Misc Parts Adds: $3

[Brian Prestwood]

If we replace the 4.5 dia. acrylic tubing with 4" clear PVC (1/4" wall thickness) we can tap the pump exhaust directly into the chamber and eliminate the middle couplers ($10).

Clear PVC is much stronger than acrylic and glues well to the rest of the PVC fittings.

If we can find a source for 4" dia clear PVC (1/4" wall thickness) that doesn't increase the cost too much I'd like to use it instead.

Last time I checked, almost two years ago, clear PVC was more than triple what acrylic cost.

[Brian Prestwood]

Clear PVC is down to $18/ft...

Savko Plumbing (http://www.savko.com/portal/clearpvc.asp)

Replacing the acrylic in the chamber of the 24" model $7. It is a done deal. Unless anyone knows better, we're going to clear PVC for the contact chamber and collection cup.

[Tropical-Paradise-Ed]

Brian for your tangential injection seal problem, you can use Uniseals:

http://www.aquaticeco.com/aquatic1v1/itempg.icl?iteminfo4=0&itmid=11114&passitemid=11114

Just search for uniseal for other sizes

Euro Reef uses them for the Sedra attachment.

I've also read some people in the DIY forum using them for the collection cup but haven't read any feedback if its working or not.

For 4" s to 2" s, you can use a reducing bushing:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html

At the bottom.

Is clear PVC "rigid" enough for the contact chamber? I thought that the pvc has a good amount of "deflection" to it for doing mild bend radius.

[Brian Prestwood]

Ed

We've had a little trouble drilling through the extruded acryilic. However, if we could drill through the center line of the acrylic tube and use the uni-seal with the cheaper acrylic and still eliminate the 2nd coupler. I don't see how could use the uni-seal for a tangential injection.

Like I said though, I don't think tangential injection is all that important.

I found the #437 reducing bushing on that website but it looks like it is 4" Male slip - 2" Female Ship. That is what we use for the cap of the contact chamber.

For the bottom of the collection cup we need a a 4" Female Slip - 2" Female Slip redusing bushing.

Thanks for the tips. Keep em coming.

[Brian Prestwood]

The skimmer pumps are...

24" - Mag 3 ($50)
36" - Mag 5 ($60)

[Brian Prestwood]

After looking at the cost of the more popular skimmers it is starting to look like DIY is only cost justified on the larger skimmers.

You buy a 2' skimmer with a 350 GPH aspirating venturi pump for around $250 new. It will cost us $170 to DIY it. Saving $70 probably isn't worth it.

A 3' skimmer with a 500 GPH aspirating venturi pump costs around $500. We can make it for $215.

A 4' skimmer with a 1000 GPH aspirating venturi pump costs around $800 new. We can make it for around $375.

[RustySnail]

Brian-

Is the last picture you posted the venturi? If so; it looks to be on the output side of the pump. Also; I'm not sure I understand how water flows in/out of the skimmer; looks like the intake for the pump is plumbed to the skimmer's body as well. Could you post a diagram of how it is plumbed?

I see a vinyl tube that goes into the tall standpipe; is that the skimmer output?

[Brian Prestwood]

This is a response to an offline question that I think everyone should hear.

The reason we seperated the foam and contact chamber in the original design is so you could add more contact chamber and increase the pump size when you get a larger aquarium.

That is why it is important to pick a line of pumps with the same intake-exhaust fittings.

Integrating the foam and contact chambers saves $10 and makes the construction a little simpler but you can't upsize the skimmer if you need to.

[Brian Prestwood]

Russ

>Is the last picture you posted the venturi? If so;
>it looks to be on the output side of the pump.

You are correct. And, that is not to design. I did that because the big pump I had produced too much foam for my 5' contact chamber so I had to move the venturi to the exhaust side.

Yes, I'm wasting power. A weaker pump with an aspirating venturi could produce just as much foam. I happen to have a big pump so I used it.

>I'm not sure I understand how water flows in/out of the skimmer

That is the part of this design that confusses most people.

You are correct, the intake and the exhaust of the skimmer are tapped into the foaming-contact chamber.

The tank to skimmer tap is near the top of the skimmer. The skimmer to tank tap is on the bottom of the skimmer. It has a tube running up the outside of the skimmer. That's the white tube running up the front. This is the automatic leveling counter current design you see on most skimmers these days.

I didn't have any good pictures of this part. I'll see if I can take some.

Seperating the foaming pump from the tank-skimmer circulation allows a single design to function as either an in-sump, out of sump or hang-on skimmer. Also, adjusting the water level in the skimmer is easier if you aren't pumping 500-1200 GPH through it. My foaming pump circulates water in the reaction chamber at 1200 GPH but I run the water through my skimmer at around 100 GPH. Think of it as the ultimate contact time maximizer.

FYI - the bubbles do not recirculate though the foaming pump, only clear water goes back in. There is a mesh between the intake and exhaust ports that keep the bubbles from getting back into the foaming pump. They only way they can go is up.

[Alto]

Why not just make the reaction chamber out of ABS or PVC instead of acrylic for people wanting to save some money. The only part you really need to see is the neck where you will control how wet or dry the foam is. By cutting out the acrylic tube you could shave your materials costs, and concidering that you dont really need to see into the reaction chamber other then for it to look prettier and more "skimmerish".

[thereefgeek]

Brian, I think I made my collection cup out of a 4x2 reducer I got from H.D. The reaction chamber and cup body is 4-1/2" cast acrylic tube which has the same o.d. as abs fitting i.d. (yes, a.b.s. is reef safe). The neck is 2" clear pvc because acrylic is not available in that size. The lid is acrylic sheet also. When you host the diy, I'll bring my skimmer as well as any extra tools if you want.

[Brian Prestwood]

Alto

When I'm adjusting mine I line the miniscus (water-foam) line up to certain positions in the contact chamber. I really need to see inside the top part of the contact chamber.

However, if we stick with the upgradeable (enlargeable) design, we can make all the segments but the top segment out of black ABS. The top segment can be acrylic or clear PVC.

That will decrease the cost about $20 on the two foot model and $40 on the three foot model. It will also minimize the algae build up.

Good tip! Thanks

[Brian Prestwood]

The hook for the hang on model will have to be below the collar on the current design. Otherwise, the skimmer will sit too low with respect to the tank and the return tube will have to be too high. This will cause the water level to be too high.

We'll put a 2nd colllar on the contact chamber itself. It will not be glued. The top cap will act as a stop.

The chamber will be able to turn inside the collar. This will allow orienting as needed.

We may even eliminate the existing colar.

[reefnovice]

Just let me know when you are able to teach the DIY session. My house is open to host as long as you limit the number of participants to 10 people.

yvonne :)

[Brian Prestwood]

Yvonne

Your point about skimmer cost justification at the moonlight DIY is valid.

If you, or any MARS member, was considering purchasing a skimmer in the $250 range, e.g. ETS for 90 gal tank, then building it probably isn't cost justifiable. The parts alone cost aroudn $160. Saving $80 isn't worth it to most people.

Of course, you can build a skimmer rated for a 135 for around $170 in parts. Some people who were considering buying for a 90 gal tank may build for a 135 gal, or bigger.

Also, the MARS skimmer is pretty versatile. It can go in the sump, outside the sump or hang on the tank. Also, the recirculating foam generator increases the water to bubble contact time at least three fold over the 90 gal ETS. Also, the MARS design is expandable. You can replace the 300 GPH pump with a 500 GPH pump and add another contact chamber section if you buy a bigger tank.

[reefnovice]

Sounds good. I am planning to do a 300 gallon reef tank in the near future (when I am done in grad school and make some real money) so I would be interested in making a protein skimmer for 300+ gallons. Just want to plan ahead to save some money plus if I build it, then maybe I know how to fix it in case of problems later.

[Brian Prestwood]

Here's a block diagram. I'll provide the parts list next.

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Gallery/Skimmer/SkimmerBlockDiagram.jpg

A couple of quick notes...

#16 - The collar to hang the skimmer on the aquarium. It is shown rotated 90 degrees away from the aquarium. It would face the aquarium in use.

#21 - The drain into the tank. It is also show oriented 90 degrees from the aquarium. It would also face the aquarium in use.

[thereefgeek]

Originally posted by Brian Prestwood
Also, the MARS design is expandable. You can replace the 300 GPH pump with a 500 GPH pump and add another contact chamber section if you buy a bigger tank.

Or add another tank to your existing system like I did with Jeni's 30 gal.

[thereefgeek]

BTW, nice diagram Brian.

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

>Nice Diagram

Thanks

We still need to find your 4" F - 2" F reducing bushing (#24). What did you use for a cap (#27)? I made mine out of plexi-glass but that is labor intensive.

This time I want to use all thin wall (sched 80) PVC tubing (2, 5, 14, 21 & 22) to maximize the water flow. See any problem with that?

The foam generation loop (6, 5, 4, 2, 12, 1, 3 & 28) is all 1/2 inch. The pump size dictates the 1/2 venturi.

This time I want to use 1" fittings and tubing for the return to the tank (9, 14, 18, 21 & 22). Having a big return seems to be critical to keeping the water level in the contact chamber stable. We'll have to get a 1" tap and the correct drill bit.

[Brian Prestwood]

I added #30 to the block diagram. It is a roll of the black mesh that makes up DLS filters stuffed into the foaming chamber.

It prevents the foam from being sucked into the pump or tank return. This is necessary with larger pumps (1000 or greater). It may not be necessary with the MAG 300-700 GPH pumps. I'll test it on the prototype before we begin construction.

[Brian Prestwood]

Answer to an offline question.

The gap in #5 is intentional. This is a poor mans true union. We cut the PVC tube then fit vynal tubing and a clamp around it.

Remove the clamp, pull one end of the PVC tubing out and you can unscrew the pump-venturi assembly from the foaming chamber.

This isn't a cost savings issue. True unions aren't that expensive. This is an assembly issue. It is hard to get the fittings sized so the two halfs of the true union line up right. The poor mans true union is much more forgiving.

[thereefgeek]

>>We still need to find your 4" F - 2" F reducing bushing (#24).

I thought I got it at H.D., but I went in yesterday and all they had was 4x3" (same tapered shape). I'll try Lowe's and OSH today.

>>What did you use for a cap (#27)? I made mine out of plexi-glass but that is labor intensive.

Indeed, but it looks nicer.

>>This time I want to use all thin wall (sched 80) PVC tubing (2, 5, 14, 21 & 22) to maximize the water flow. See any problem with that?

No, I use thinwall in all my plumbing for that very same reason.

>>We'll have to get a 1" tap and the correct drill bit.

I have a 3/4" pipe tap if you need. 1" runs $30-$40.
Also, just a thought. If we modify the top of the chamber to include an additional 4x2" reducer inverted, the conical shape may help with foam stability as it climbs up the neck (#23). I used acrylic (4-1/2") for the chamber & cup, but the 2" clear pvc neck has a tendency to turn opaque over time. If you use 4" clear pvc for the body, it may get cloudy.

[thereefgeek]

Here's the cup in action:

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

Thanks for the picture of the your collection cup. I really need to add that 2nd skirt to mine. The foam comes out the venting holes in the lid.

I'll start searching on-line for the 4-2 reducer you used for the bottom of your collection cup.

$40 for the tap. That's a bit pricey. Let's talk offline about that.

If we modify the top of the chamber to include an additional 4x2" reducer inverted, the conical shape may help with foam stability as it climbs up the neck (#23).

We did use a 4-2 reducer with the cone on the underside. Mine has one. I'm pretty sure your has one too.

I added the drain riser extender (32) to my block diagram. You have one on yours. I took mine off. It allows you to extend the riser so the water level in the contact chamber rises. I'm not sure why, but most skimmers don't allow you to adjust the water level by changing the riser height.

Does HD carry the tube patch we used for the riser extender for 1" PVC?

[Brian Prestwood]

Here's the parts list...

MARS Skimmer Parts List (http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/Skimmer%20Parts%20List.htm)

[RustySnail]

Brian-

Nice Diagram!! I understand much better now how it works...

I tried building a DIY skimmer similar to this (airstone, CC) many moons ago; but with no sump and no outdoor location to experiment; I just ended up with a volcanoing-mess!

Lots of questions at this point...

How much in/out (port 12-21) flow goes through the skimmer? Is this flow generated by a separate powerhead or is the head generated by the bubble movement giving flow? It seems to me like you would want the flow through the skimmer to be just below the point where bubbles are not being sucked out the return; but would that be too fast? Also, noticed that the flow inlet is at the midpoint of the skimmer riser; would contact time be increased if it were closer to the top, or would that cause too much turbulence near the foam formation area?

How would this skimmer compare in performance to an off-the-shelf type? How much skimmate are you getting on a daily or weekly basis; and how much are you feeding?

-Russ

[Brian Prestwood]

>How much in/out (port 12-21) flow goes through the skimmer?
A small powerhead will do it. Or, a T on you main circulation loop.

>but would that be too fast?
Most people think in terms of slowing the rise of the bubbles in the contact chamber as the only wasy to affect contact time. However, the faster he water flows though the skimmer the shorter time it is in contact with the bubbles. So, fast isn't good.

>would that cause too much turbulence near the foam formation area?
It did on mine. I'm still not happy with the inlet position. Threading the contact chamber into the foaming chamber will make it difficult to keep the inlet aligned on the side. I'm considering putting it at the top of the foaming chamber instead of the bottom of the contact chamber.

I'll get back to you on the performance question. Got to go.

[thereefgeek]

I found it! I got a 4x2 tapered reducer coupling @ OSH for $6.19. They also had the 1" adjustable repair fittings for $3.46. Then I went across the street to Lowe's and they had the 4x2 for $4.37 and the 1" slippy for $3.93, but it has an o-ring union incorperated into it, hence the additional $.47. I built mine same as yours with parts #20 & 17, but my theory was to use two 4x2's as shown in the attachment:

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

Now I get it. The contact chamber top and the collection bottome are the same $4.37 part.

I LIKE IT. that is simpler. Simpler is ALWAYS better.

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

Your 4 - 2 Reducer idea also elimnates the need for the service collar. But, we'll definately need to keep the two (foaming-contact) chamber design. Unscrewing the two segements is the only way into the chamber now.

[thereefgeek]

The only problems I can see by eliminating parts # 20 & 17 would be salt creep if it's not glued on and ease of cleaning if it is. Of course, I havent cleaned MY reaction chamber in 2 years.:lmao: Some people swear a dirty skimmer is more eficient, but I'm just a lazy reefer.:beer: Also, plate #19 where the valve (29) and vent (22) mount may conflict with this arrangement. Food for thought.

[Brian Prestwood]

Here's the new block diagram...

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/SkimmerBlockDiagram.jpg

I kept the parts numbers consistent. In other words, I didn't reuse the part numbers that were removed.

I don't show the the hook on the hang-on collar (#16) as it is on the other side of the chamber.

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

I would glue #17 (new diagram) on.

I'm with you on cleaning, just shove a long 2" squirel tail brush down the throat while it is running. The caked on YUK foams right out.

Unscrewing the foaming chamber from the contact chamber is for serious maintenance only, not cleaning. Those ABS threads will wear out. I noticed the silicon glue on your calcium reactor cap so I know you know what I mean :)

[headshrink]

Is the plan to have each MARS member bring their own parts... or make one BIG order?

[Brian Prestwood]

headshrink

We haven't worked those details out yet. Normally, each member purchases their mail order parts ahead of time. The day of the DIY project we make a local parts run.

However, this time I'd like to kit it all up. Whoever wants to build one will pre-pay for all the parts (approx $150). Rich (I'm volunteering Rich) and I will order/purchase all the parts. That way we'll be sure to get the correct parts for the best price.

[RustySnail]

Originally posted by thereefgeek
The only problems I can see by eliminating parts # 20 & 17 would be salt creep if it's not glued on and ease of cleaning if it is.

Maybe consider using rubber pipe reducers/couplers (the type with hose clamps) on the sections that you want to be able to dis-assemble. I remember using that type when I was experimenting with a DIY skimmer...

-Russ

[Brian Prestwood]

All

The 2nd diagram now shows the hook on the hang-on collar.

[Brian Prestwood]

Russ

I didn't answer your question about performance. Any figures I have one performance are purely anecdotal, highly subjective and probably useless, so here they are :)...

I have a six year old 120 gal heavily populated reef tank. On average I feed about 1/2 table spoon of Sanjay mix a day. It varies a lot. On average I get about a half cup of thick dark green skimate a day.

[thereefgeek]

So when do we build this thing? Wait 'till I'm back from diving the Cook's.

[Brian Prestwood]

Rich

Yes, let's wait until you get back.

[headshrink]

If I could add one more recommendation....
How about a 'tool list.' This way we don't have to all wait for a few tools and forge ahead. Also, those w/o tools will have plenty to borrow for the project. :) I can't wait.

[Brian Prestwood]

This version supports two pumps. We can build it with one pump and cap the other set of pump taps. Later you can add another pump.

One problem with this design is that you need about 1 foot of clearance to hang the pump on the tank.

The additonal collar below the hang-on collar is to stand the skimmer up straight when it is hanging.

http://www.marineaquarist.org/Portals/9e47b9dd-73aa-4c61-8ad9-7eadcacbad35/SkimmerBlockDiagram2.jpg

[RasBobre]

Great diagrams and thank you Brian and Rich for all of your hard work.

Looks like you have a great design, can't wait to build.

[Brian Prestwood]

Everyone

Except for the pump, this design is identical to our last batch which worked great.

I have a MAG 5 and I've ordered a 1/2" venturi. I need to verify the venturi-pump combo.

I also need to figure out the top and bottom of the height range of the "T" in the exhaust riser. Most skimmer align the top of the range with the top of the contact chamber and the bottom of the range about 4 inches below that, as shown in my diagrams.

In case it isn't clear, that blue thing (#32) on the riser allows you to adjust the height of the "T" up or down 4 inches.

[achilles1]

IF you look at the ER's and Deltecs they produce thier tangental injection by placing a 90 (elbow) inside of the reaction chamber. Not hard to do at all. Just a suggestion. I'm building a skimmer like this right now myself and that is how I decided to do it. My reaction chamber consist of a peice of 8" drainage pipe (blue PVC) that I dumpster dove for. A new subdivion is being built next to mine and it was new scrap pipe. Why not? :) It's thick and durable.

[Brian Prestwood]

Achilles

I wanted to go with larger diameter tubing but the fittings take a big jump in price when you go above 4". How did you make the collection cup cone?

[achilles1]

I don't have any pics, but sometimes things just work out. THe OD of the pipe is 9" so I was able to cut a regular 5 gallon water jug and use the neck of it for the cone to the collection cup. The project is still in progress. I'm still not firm on the final height of the skimmer. I still have to cut the height and add a keyhole flange to attach the collection cup to the base. I was thinking maybe I could fire it up at it's current height of five feet and cut down from there if it's too big. The plan was to make a 30" tall reaction chamber. Is any of that clear?

[Brian Prestwood]

The neck of a 5 gal water bottle makes sense. Good idea.

Now all I have to do is come up with a good answer for when my wife asks where the missing water bottle is :)

[Brian Prestwood]

Heck, for that matter, the whole five gallon water bottle might work well. You couldn't get inside so cleaning it would be a pain.

[user48953]

If there was something strong enough to hold 2 or 3 five gallon water bottles together, you'd have an awesome and pretty cheap skimmer body that's transparent..

just a thought

brian.. is the DIY sesson still on this weekend? and how does doing the ca reacter at the same time look at this point?

[achilles1]

There was someone on the board that did in fact make a skimmer out of 5 gallon bottle. It worked pretty good. The dia is greater than 8". I never measured. I thought about doing that for my 30 gallon but decided to make one for my big tank and put that old skimmer onto my 30.
As far as cleaning goes you could add a flange to the top of the bottle. THe material is thin and I'm not sure what type of plastic it is so that might not work. The 8" PVC has 1/2" walls so making taps and such directly on the body are no big deal.
As far as making the water bottle disappear, just heat a needle and stick it in the seam of the bottle instant pinhole leak and honey I have to replace this bottle. lol :)

[Brian Prestwood]

xdroccax

I didn't get much response on the thread. I think most people are waiting to see it tonight. I won't be able to do a DIY tomorrow. Perhaps next week. Let's see how interest is tonight.

[reefnovice]

Hi, Brian. I probably won't be able to make it tonight ( swapped with tests, midterms, and papers.) I am still interested in making one, let me know when you are hosting it.

yvonne

[RasBobre]

Brian - I was looking at these old threads in preperation for my final construction of the skimmer, but none of the links that go to the marineaquarist.org no longer work. Any chance of getting them refired up? Or are there any other links that I am not finding? Thanks Brian. -Robert

[Brian Prestwood]

Robert

The website was down the last two days. Try again. Otherwise, just go to the MARS website directly...

www.MarineAquarist.org

login and navigate to the Download, DIY section. The plans are all there. Again, my offer to help you at my house almost anytime is still open. Terry and I assembled his on Saturday. It worked very well. I decided to relace that pad with a plexi-glass plate. When I see you next I'll give two to you.

[tpete]

Many thanks again Brian. I never would have gotten the assembly right if you hadn't devoted many hours of your free time in the construction of such an awesome skimmer. Mine is working beautifully and producing tons of skimate at minimal bubble flow. I bought another calcium test kit from Sealife this time and my ca is also showing near 500 with the infrequent addition of calcium suppliments in my makeup dwater. Can't figure that one out. Thanks again, Terry

[Brian Prestwood]

Terry

You are welcome for the skimmer. Like I told Robert, I've come up with a way to eliminae the filter pad. I'll give you a disk that replaces it next time I see you.

If your alkalinity levels are low then adding buffer may lower you're calcium levels.

[late2wake]

i cut the skimmer to the height i was lookin for and it works great! skimmate is running dark and smelly, but the return has a lot of micro bubbles. is that what the new disk is for to replace the filter pad? thanks.
-Derek

[Brian Prestwood]

Derek

When you turn on your skimmer it will emit some micro bubbles into the tank. It should stop within a couple of minutes.

The flow rate through the skimmer should be around 80 gph.

Does your skimmer exhaust go directly into your tank or into your sump?

Are you using a Mag 5 or a Mag 7 to generate foam?

If it doesn't stop emitting bubbles we can replace the pad with two perforated disks and a spacer that should eliminate the micro bubbles.

[late2wake]

no microbubbles going into the tank, just out of the return into the sump. Im using a mag 5 with a rio 800. the skimmer is 26inches.
-derek

[Brian Prestwood]

Derek

That Rio 800 is rated at 200 gph. The flow through the skimmer into the tank should not exceed 100 gph. That's probably why you are getting so many micro bubbles.

The Mag-Drive 1 is rated at 80 gph and has adjustable flow rate. It is $17 at Marine Depot. That's what we used on Terry's and it worked well.