Need help on wood stand for 400 gal tank

[nreefer]

Hi everyone, I need help designing a 400 gal tank stand. It will be made out of wood. Any links or pics would be really appreciated.
Thanks

[mhurley]

Some schematics for my 330 stand...
http://mikesreef.homeip.net/Paul's%20Diagrams.htm

[nreefer]

Cool thanks! any more?

[MickyB]

Mike,

Really Nice setup. The tank that is in your driveway has 4 openings in the top and the Tank shown with the lighting over it has 3 holes. They are not the same Tank are they?

Mike

[willis]

Check out the stand pics in my gallery. It might be a little bit of overkill, but it ain't goin nowhere.:smokin:

[mhurley]

Originally posted by platy
Mike,

Really Nice setup. The tank that is in your driveway has 4 openings in the top and the Tank shown with the lighting over it has 3 holes. They are not the same Tank are they?

Mike

Platy...
Hmmmm???? Yes, they are. The tank in the driveway is my Tenecor tank, 4 openings. That's the tank I have up and running now. 4x400 watt halides over it.
Unless there is a stray picture on my site somewhere of my original 330 (which was used, and cracked a seam, so it was replaced), I'm not sure where you're seeing 3 openings.

In this picture http://mikesreef.homeip.net/images/lightsfront.jpg
You can see the old tank in the bottom right hand corner, it only had 3 openings...But that's all I can find of it.

Mike

[MickyB]

It was this picture looked like a used tank with three openings http://mikesreef.homeip.net/images/Topsmall.jpg

[gwrulzmylife]

platy,
You can see the start of the 4th hole in the link you sent, it's just the angle the pic was taken in.

[imsqueak]

Hi Mike,

I'm designing a stand for a 300 and ran across yours. Why a support every 12" from front to back of your stand (width-wise)? Since the supports dont really touch the tank's bottom edge why do so many? From what I've read and construction type friends have said 4 4x4s on the corners would hold the 4000lbs of the full tank, the other 2 4x4s in the middle and the 2x6[4]s spliting them (btwn corners and center braces) are just something to reduce the stress across the span of a 8-10' tank.

What's with the 45*angled supports from back to middle of the stand? (didnt even address this) and all the cross members? I'm for building something to hold the weight, but NOT for building something that adds more wieght (and as important: cost)

Your drawing are great detail. I just want to see if you beefing it more than what's necessary.

-Don

[mhurley]

Originally posted by platy
It was this picture looked like a used tank with three openings http://mikesreef.homeip.net/images/Topsmall.jpg


Ahhhh...Yeah, that's the first used tank that failed...Never even got it filled...Tossed it and had a new one built by Tenecor...

Mike

[mhurley]

Originally posted by imsqueak

I'm designing a stand for a 300 and ran across yours. Why a support every 12" from front to back of your stand (width-wise)? Since the supports dont really touch the tank's bottom edge why do so many? From what I've read and construction type friends have said 4 4x4s on the corners would hold the 4000lbs of the full tank, the other 2 4x4s in the middle and the 2x6[4]s spliting them (btwn corners and center braces) are just something to reduce the stress across the span of a 8-10' tank.

I didn't design the stand myself. A guy I met that is a structural engineer and also a fellow large tank owner did. I trusted his judgment blindly.


What's with the 45*angled supports from back to middle of the stand? (didnt even address this) and all the cross members? I'm for building something to hold the weight, but NOT for building something that adds more wieght (and as important: cost)

The 45's were added to prevent any shifting from front to back. I didn't care about cost or weight, it was built in my basement, not like I had to carry it anywhere. Like I've said before, this thing was totally overengineered on purpose, I could land small aircraft on it.


Mike

[Mustang]

Here are pics of my stand for my 450g. I glued and screwed ever lap joint.
I used Gorilla glue and it doesn't move at all even when I lean on it cleaning etc.

Bare frame
http://home.comcast.net/~kjgosinski/stand.jpg

In place with plywood top

http://home.comcast.net/~kjgosinski/standinplace.JPG

I think if I built it again I would have put a 1/2" plywood bottom just to catch any drips etc.

[Adam101]

hey mustang so it was all just glue and screws????? Im making a new stand soon the first and only stand I have built was for a 55 gal and I used 2 carrage bolts for each of the 6 uprights and they were bolted through the horizontals, I remember each one of those arnt cheap, I will be making a stand for a 500 gal tank in a while, But am Not sure If I wanna spring for carrage bolts for the whole thing, any suggestions? or maybe 1 carrage bolt for each upright( top and bottom and then just 2-4 screws in addition and glue? ( anyone have opinions)??????I know Im a fan of Overbuilding But on a LARGE stand thats a lot of cash in bolts.

[sabodish]

i have a pic in my photo gallery of the stand i built for my 367 gallon..all PT 4x4,s nailed together with GALVANIZED 6" spikes...if you just use regular screews or nails, they will rust and then the problems start.
-mike

[nreefer]

looks good, how long has it been up for?

[sabodish]

mine has been up for almost 3 years....

[sabodish]

i should add, i have added in cross members for more lateral bracing...but i dont have a pic of that..sorry

[Mustang]

Yep just glue and screws. No lags what you can't see is that ever joint it a lap joint. They are not just butted together
Each joint got 5 screws and multiple screws along the lenght of each board the are doubled

I tested one after the glue was dry at it split the wood before the joint came apart. It been up for a little over a year right now

Also The "skin" is made out of oak and attached to the frame

I guess for a few bucks the lags can't hurt?

If you get a chance lool at the stands the LFS sells you would be amazed at hw flimsy there are made 2x2 with 1/2 plywood

[Ger]

Here is a pic of the stand for my 400 gallon. I used 2x4's every 16"OC. The 2x4's are trippled in the rear center of the tank (and quadroupled in the front because of a larger opening for access under the stand). The crossbraces are also 2x4's, which sit on glue-laminated 4x4. Around the whole perimeter is a 2x4 so the 3/4" plywood on top sits on that and the crossbraces. Everything is glued and screwed together. I have a sheet of 3/4" plywood on each end and will also add a 3/4" plywood sheet across the whole back for shear strength. BTW the weird color on the stand is the epoxy I have on the top.
Let me know if you have questions.

[spanker]

Mustang ang Ger, can you both post some more pics of your stands. I too am setting up a 400 gallon and would like to see more of these "structures". I was thinking I might have to resort to using 4x6 dimensional lumber to carry this load, but you guys appear to have done quite well without resorting to such heavy lumber.

[pch90265]

I'm working on a 525G myself... I've put up my stand pics at:

http://www.inverttanks.com/newtank/stand.htm

I'm going to add an additional set of posts so there are a total of four under the 8' span. I'm using 4x6's for header and base lumber. I'm going to use 2-2x6 slapped together for the posts (thanks to all who chimmed in on my thread with that suggestion!) I'm going to use 2x6 joists across the top, 16" on center, with a sheet of 3/4" ply over the whole thing.

[Ken] Mustang's frame looks a lot like I hope mine will. :)

--Sean--

[SPC]

Originally posted by sabodish
i have a pic in my photo gallery of the stand i built for my 367 gallon..all PT 4x4,s nailed together with GALVANIZED 6" spikes...if you just use regular screews or nails, they will rust and then the problems start.
-mike

Mike, they make galvanized screws too.

Great looking stand, Mustang, quite adequate to do the job IMO.
Steve

[Ger]

I just posted some pictures of my stand and the floor support in my gallery. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

[spanker]

Thanks for the extra pics Ger.

[wetworx101]

When I made my 360 gallon, I made a stand very similar to mustangs out of 4x4s. The thing was that I knew I never wanted to have to lift it again, but I knew I would have to move it eventually. I made mounting plates/points inside the outside corners. When the tank is drained, or even has a little water/gravel left in it, I can simply jack up one side at a time and bolt on a couple 2000lb caster blocks. When all 4 are on I can move the tank and stand in one(prolly about 800lbs or more even empty...glass is heavy!) by myself all around the basement...no problem. And because the basement is exposed on one side, if I ever need to move it all together, I can just wheel it out the door and up a ramp into a truck. I cant imagine what I would do if I had not made the stand to accomidate this roller system. Many people dont think they will ever want to move tanks of this size...but often do years later...even if just for a temporary cleaning under the stand. Just an idea I wanted to pass along if it might help. No calling over the boys to have them lift the tank off the stand and do everything the hard way.

[lilbuddy]

here is my buddys 525, the stand is going to be finished off. All equipment is going to be on the other side of the wall. The stand is a beast! the guy in the red sweatshrit made the stand.

[reefmutt223]

Lowes has outdoor deck screws for preasure treated lumber. They are a green color and not susposed to rust with the coating they have. I used these on my stand for the 180, which is all 2x4 with 3/4" plywood top with foam between the tank and stand. I used the double header system. like the pics.

[reefmutt223]

The pics. that were posted on the other threads.

[vortextoolman]

Keep in mind the load on the tank is only supported by the rim around the bottom of the tank, so plywood is not neccessary and doesn't do anything for you . I have built several from wood all of which were big time overkill, kike the ones other responders are showing . Did you ever look how flimsy the store bought stands are???? They are scary!!! Particleboard crap.

I found with a drilled tank and corner overflows it was difficult to use the wood stands as the drain lines interfered with the stand itself. I recently built steel stands for my fish room that easily holds all my tanks and provides complete access . I used 1 3/4" square tubing with about 3/32" wall thickness ( thin stuff ) it cuts easy and welds easy . It's straight to!! Not like wood!!

Put strips of cork or hard rubber strips under the edges of the tank to even out any stresses created by an uneven stand surface.

[Mustang]

Originally posted by vortextoolman
Keep in mind the load on the tank is only supported by the rim around the bottom of the tank, so plywood is not neccessary and doesn't do anything for you .
This is only true for glass tanks Acrylic tanks need full bottom support

[spanker]

Originally posted by Mustang
This is only true for glass tanks Acrylic tanks need full bottom support

Agreed.. Acrylic tanks must always be fully supported underneath.

[vortextoolman]

Yes! Good point on the acrylic tanks. I assumed we were talking about glass only.............

[Adam101]

LIL Sweet LOrd how much did the tank itself weigh? it looks like its in a basement what had to happen to get that down there? LOL