BTA lighting ?

[TIGER SHARK]

Anthony,
I got my first BTA the other day and I all ready want more. Its in my 60 Gal reef right now but I have a 45 Gal with fish only right now. I really just need help with the lighting to get it ready for a BTA tank. The tank is only 3' long and the bottom of the tank would be about 12-15" from the light, depending on how high I put it. I think cost wise, a single 175 MH would be best. What spectrum would you recommend to get to best benefit the BTA and how high from the bottom of the tank would you mount the light? I know BTA's dont always like being blasted with MH but I think they will adjust in time, not sure tho. Thanks for your help.

Scott

[Anthony Calfo]

Cheers, Scott :)

You are spot-on about their adaptability. Even more so in lower light with extra feedings. You might consider a 10K double ended 150watt MH (say 4-6" off surface of water). If not, a 175 watt MH will be fine (6-9" off water surface). Acclimate the anemone slowly if this is a big jump from your current lighting. 6500-10,000K would be safe. Cooler/blue lamps are also possible.

Use a good reflector of course (parabolic if possible) to improve distribution of light.

I favor feeding a few small times weekly at least (finely minced meats of marine origin)

Its not a terrible idea to proffer the anemone a cave to slip under for when conducting natural fission (they creep into the reef usually during the process). For breeding purposes only, a small flower pot works nicely. Hardly aesthetic though.

Best regards!

Anthony

[TIGER SHARK]

Thanks for the quick reply! I will look into a 150 if I can find one for the same price or less than the 175. By cooler blue lamps, do you mean lamps like the 20000K radium? I would rather get one of those but I think they are a bit more expensive for the setup. I might just keep my current BTA in the reef and get a rose for the new setup. I know there has been much discussion on the topic of keeping more that one BTA (not from same parent) in the same tank, at least in a smaller such as a 45 Gal. How do you feel on this? I would like to eventually get a rose and also add the green one to the 45 unless there is a great probablity of having problems.

On another note, you are an expert on coral propagation also right? If you are, I have another question for you :D

Thanks for all the help!

[Anthony Calfo]

" By cooler blue lamps, do you mean lamps like the 20000K radium? I would rather get one of those but I think they are a bit more expensive for the setup."

Correct... and agreed :) Not needed or ideal for this application.


"I know there has been much discussion on the topic of keeping more that one BTA (not from same parent) in the same tank, at least in a smaller such as a 45 Gal. How do you feel on this? "


I am strongly opposed to mixing species of anemone in the same tank... and feel the same way about specimens that are not clones (same species but different colonies). Under no circumstance IMO with home aquaria. I'd sincerely suggest you keep the anemones separate.

Please feel welcome to ask that coral prop question. Perhaps start a new thread for the benefit of the future readers and RC archives.

Kind regards,

Anthony

[TIGER SHARK]

That is what I thought about mixing clones so I will not put 2 different clones in the same tank, not worth the risk.

Also when feeding BTA's will the food easily stick to the tentacles or do you have to get it really close to the mouth, almost forcably? I know mine is new and probably still adjusting but food doesnt stick to it. I dont want to force any food into it but just for future reference what should I do?

New thread coming up...

[Anthony Calfo]

No need to force indeed. Some feed more aggressively than others. Target feeding is challenging as small enough food must be delivered in a slurry... but it is sloppy, and the unnatural burst of food from a baster is more likely to startle the polyps than to trip them to feed. Large chunks are simply difficult/dangerous to offer and are often regurgitated late at night leading to a "fed" animal that starves in time.

Best bet is to put a small amount or food or meaty juice into the aquarium 10-15 minutes in advance of the feeding to stimulate a feeding response. A slurry of food with aquarium water then can be gently basted from a distance. Feeding with tongs may also be possible. Experiment to see what is best for your individual.

Kind regards,

Anthony

[TIGER SHARK]

Hi Anthony,
Ive got another question or two for you... What do you think about using these lights of america, 500 watt output flood lights? Here is a link where we have been talking about them:

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=170151

I think adding the MH right now is a little out of my budget, unless you can use the cheap ones at home depot. I think I read they burn at a different temp or K rating than we need for a reef. Anyways people seem to have some decent results with the LOA floods and at about $30 each, that price is right. I want to put one or 2 of these over my 45 and move my current green BTA in there. I finally found a rose local to me with some nice colors and I want to put that in my 60 gal reef tank. I was thinking of the following to minimize the chance of any toxins remaining in the 60... Transfer the BTA to the 45, then perform a 10-15% water change in the 60, followed by running carbon over the next couple of days, then add the rose on sunday. Do you think this is necessary or do BTA's release toxins only if they detect another BTA?

[Anthony Calfo]

Tiger Shark

What "might work" and what I would do are two completely different things here, my friend.

Again... I would not mix the two anemones at all and couldn't recommend it in good faith. It works for many folks... but fails for many more.

Regarding the lighting, I'm only comfortable using the LOA over vegetable filters/refugiums for shallow water plants and algae. I prefer a more tried and true (and defined) lamp for cnidarians.

MH is simply more bang for your buck in the long run when you factor in lamp replacements, bulb life, penetration of light at depth (versus fluorescents), etc.

If the anemone is kept shallow enough, you certainly can use pcs and VHOs. For VHO, I really like URI brand lamps (many folks do).

Best regards,

Anthony

[TIGER SHARK]

As far as mixing the anemones, maybe I didnt explain what I am planning to do or maybe you dont recommend it at all :lol: but I have 2 tanks. The green BTA has been in one tank for almost 2 weeks but I want to move him to the other tank and put a rose in the first tank, after water changes, carbon... So they would not actually be in the same tank, at the same time.. Or did you get that from the start?

I think you are right about the LOA so maybe I'll just save up for the MH. I was talking with another person who used the LOA and said his BTA was doing fine, but that is open to interpretation... So I was hoping I could get away with regular feedings and the LOA but I'll see what kind of deal I can find.

I love the VHO's over my reef right now and I use the URI bulbs. Thanks again for the help!

[Anthony Calfo]

Doh! I misread bud. I did indeed think they were going together after all. :)

No worries as you have planned. The new anemone going into the other's water/tank is no problem at all.

While we do not know much about the effects of allelopathy and other noxious exudations... we do know that we cannot control all. By not mixing assuredly competitive creatures, we are simply trying to reduce the stimulation of such elements to excess. And so... the new anemone will perhaps "sense" or be irritated by remnant compounbds in the water... but its not going to be an ongoing problem like a crowded reef tank.

All good :)

Best of luck!

Anthony

[TIGER SHARK]

Cool thanx for re-reading, I was starting to get scared with my upcoming new addition. But all should be ok.

[jklaw]

oh geez, i just read your comments about mixing anemones. i just bought a purple bubble tip anemone and three green bubble tips from Dr. Mac. i don't think they are from the same parent. the doc said it would not be a problem to keep different colors of the same species. so far they are all opened up and eating. they are all in the same cave. should i take some drastic action or wait it out? they periodically deflate, but i figured that was normal, or is it?
thanks,
john

[Anthony Calfo]

No worries John,

It really is more of a long term problem (allelopathy after many months/few years). Although its never a good idea to mix anemones, it will be tolerable in this case if the aquarium is large enough for the long term and water quality good enough (weekly water changes/carbon, aggressive skimming, etc).

Still... it reminds me of how often we, as aquarists, fail to consider the adult size (even in the 1-3 year picture) of many reef fishes, corals, etc. Like the keeping of many Naso tang species in home aquaria. Yikes! These fishes get 18-24" for most... even larger for some species (36")... and need small public aquaria sized displays to be kept properly/humanely. Most stunt and die in less than 5 years at home and never see their 20+ yr potential for living in aquaria under 200 galls, eg

4 anemones in one tank is scary if this tank is smaller (under 100 gall/6 foot). I trust/suspect this is a bigger tank... do hope so. Else you will need to thin the herd :p

Best regards,

Anthony

[jklaw]

hi,
that's a good point about long term growth. i have a 125 gallon reef with about 125 lbs of live rock. i have an etss evolution 500 skimmer that i have finally after 6 months gotten the hang of finetuning so that i get a good amount of coffee dark skimmate every day. i have only small fish: 4 green chromis, 4 green clown gobies, 1 citron goby, 3 red head gobies, 1 threadfin goby, 2 maroon clowns (which adopted the anemones within literally 5 seconds of me putting them in)3 purple firefish, 3 red firefish, 1 mandarin, four yellow clown gobies. i also do regular water changes. what i am hoping to do is just have one rose anemone, one green anemone, and one purple tip anemone. i got extras because i wasn't sure that they would survive shipping. of course they all have, but i will find some one to take the extras.
thanks, john

[TIGER SHARK]

Hi Anthony! So my rose seems to have found a spot I made for him and seems to like it now that I have replaced my larger pair of clowns (into the sump) with 2 baby clowns. The rose is eating well too. I have been giving it raw shrimp and plankton chunks soaked in selcon. I tried feeding it small pieces every 2 days and even tried a couple small pieces for 2 days in a row and it has aggressively taken almost all the food I have offered it. Will the BTA take small pieces until he is full or will it keep taking food even after he is full? I know you I dont want to overfeed it with a piece of seafood that is too big but what if I only give it small pieces, will it stop taking food on its own when it has had enough?

Thanks
Scott

[Anthony Calfo]

Good question, Scott...

I don't think we can fairly depend on this/any sightless/"senseless" (cognitive) animal to not overfeed. Such a condition/opportunity would almost never present itself in the wild.

Thus... yes... I do believe it is possible to overfeed or the BTA to overfeed possibly.

Offering small bits of food several times weekly will certainly support this animal for many months to allow for a proper evaluation of growth and the adequacy of your feeding amounts.

No worries... steady the course :)

Kind regards,

Anthony

[TIGER SHARK]

I really just want to induce a split by heavy feedings but I dont know what that level is. I also dont want to find out what over feeding is so I guess I'll just give it small bits every other day and see how that goes. I can all ready see the dark zoo.. algae fading and the pink color is returning so I cant have many excess nutrients, at least not as many as the previous owner :lol: