New 24g Nano Cube, Help & Suggestions Please

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Hello everyone! Santa was very good to me this year and brought just what I asked for. It's a 24 gallon, Nano Cube DX. This thread will show my progress and with your help and suugestions hopefully it will some day be as awesome as most others I have seen on this site.

This is my first SW tank and I would like to eventually like to have all sorts of reef life, as the of the tank will allow. I also asked for this kind of all-in-one tank so that I could keep it as neatly packaged as possible in my office at work. I was hoping that the DX would have adequate filtration and lighting to house most of the possible inhabitants. I'm seeing lots of posts of mods and add-ons and I'm trying to get some advice to see if they are really necessary.

Below I am posting some pics of the set-up so far. I will list the inventory below, but you will see that I have added live rock, sand and pre-mixed SW from the LFS.

Any help you can be with identifying anything you see in the pics would be apprecited, especially the greenish-whitish lichen looking thing and the little redish-pinkish dots.

Thanks! More to come shortly.

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[NanoCubeNewbie]

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[NanoCubeNewbie]

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[NanoCubeNewbie]

Here's what I have purchased so far:

24 gallon Nano Cube Deluxe Aquarium w/FREE Nano Cube Stand
21 lbs. Live Rock
20 lbs. Live Aragonite Black Sand
25 Gallons Salt Water
API Saltwater Test Kit
Top Fin, 100 Watt, Submersible Heater
Power Sentry, 1100 Jules, General Purpose Surge Protector
Instant Ocean Hydrometer
Thermometer
(2) 24 Hour Mechanical Timer

LIGHTING
The 24 gallon Nano Cube Deluxe includes two 36-watt 50/50 compact fluorescent lamps offering 72 total watts or 3 watts of lighting per gallon. Installed with a splashguard lens for bulb and ballast protection. Energy-saving ballast allows for "flicker-free" starts and dependable long-term performance. Provides maximum light output with the least amount of heat production. Will this amount of light sustain MOST corals and SPS and LPS, etc that I might want to add to this tank?

FILTRATION
This discreet filtration system is hidden to provide maximum space for your aquarium inhabitants. Sponge filter traps detritus and free-floating particulate matter. Activated carbon bag removes dissolved organics and odors. Ceramic Rings and Bio-Balls provide the ideal environment for beneficial bacteria. I have removed the Bio-Balls as most have suggested. Any other minor changes or suggestions? Is a skimmer only necessary with certain kinds of inhabitants?

PUMP
The included submersible pump is rated at 290 gph for water circulation. Will this flow be adequate for MOST things I may want to add?

DOUBLE FAN COOLED CANOPY
Heavy-duty ABS canopy can be flipped back and held in place for easy access for cleaning and feeding. Specifically designed for extra heat output with 4 vents and 2 built-in cooling fans to dissipate excess heat. Ensures cooler operation to extend the life of bulbs and ballast. Deluxe Nano Cube features a ventilated reflector.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I would really appreciate any information, help, guidance, etc. I am really trying to be patient before adding anything, but haven't really been able to get an exact and straight answer about when it's ok, and I see all these people setting their tanks and adding fish and stuff the next day. I know thats too soon, but my LR and water came from an up and running system and I bought the LS with the water in the bag thats supposed to have all the good stuff alive inside. I hope all this will help shorten the cycle time.

A day after I set up the tank here are the readings I got (keep in mind it was my first time using a test kit).
Nitrate: 40
Nitrite: 0.50
Amonia: 0
ph: 7.8
1.026 S.G. (seems high, but like I said, I got this water premixed and running in an established system. could be the hydrometer i guess. planning on getting a refractometer in the near future.)

Please respond with any insight. Thanks!!!

[Illuminati]

The lighting is not good enough for SPS. You can do almost any softie or LPS you want except photosynthetic gorgonians.
Things like Ricordia mushrooms, xenia, kenya tree, zoas, candycane, etc... would be perfect.

No skimmer needed, weekly waterchanges with fresh saltwater are a good idea. I also use both Chemi-Pure and Purigen which comes in media bags in the back chambers.

I replaced the stock pump with a Maxijet 1200 and would suggest you do it as well.
From the start I did this and used the stock pump to mix water for waterchanges. The stock pump died on me after about 6 months when it was only used 3 days per week. Also Maxijets use less watts and less watts = less heat in the tank.

It seems like you are off to a great start. Most of the pictures your looking for ID's are dead corals (The last picture is a dead SPS coral).

[WM15]

ive got the same tank a couple months before christmas
so far ive gotten rid of the stock pump and put in a MJ 1200 (less heat and power usage)
ive also added a koralia nano
i have 35 lbs of LR but i think that 21 is fine
and no the water S.G. is fine
also try to get that pH up to about 8.3

most importanty take you time!!!

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I would really appreciate any information, help, guidance, etc. I am really trying to be patient before adding anything, but haven't really been able to get an exact and straight answer about when it's ok, and I see all these people setting their tanks and adding fish and stuff the next day. I know thats too soon, but my LR and water came from an up and running system and I bought the LS with the water in the bag thats supposed to have all the good stuff alive inside. I hope all this will help shorten the cycle time.

A day after I set up the tank here are the readings I got (keep in mind it was my first time using a test kit).
Nitrate: 40
Nitrite: 0.50
Amonia: 0
ph: 7.8
1.026 S.G. (seems high, but like I said, I got this water premixed and running in an established system. could be the hydrometer i guess. planning on getting a refractometer in the near future.)

Please respond with any insight. Thanks!!!

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Does the MaxiJet retrofit into where the stock pump and blower head are now? Will I need to do any hacking or cutting into the tank to put the MaxiJet in?

Also, how does the Koralia Nano attach? I'm assuming it suctions to or magnets through the glass, right? And that's just for added flow?

What about using floss in one of the filter chambers? Anyone think that would be a good idea?

One, last question. How soon do you think I can add my first living thing and what should it be? A coral or a fish?

[Illuminati]

With the Maxijet 1200 it fits fine but you will need to strip it down to it's basic unit, there are a lot of add on parts that come with them that you don't need for this tank.

The Koralia is a great idea for more flow. You are correct, it is held in place by magnets.

I use filter floss instead of a spong. The first thing the water hits when it goes over the overflow is the floss and catches the debris, replace at least weekly if not more. (When it's brown it's time to replace it).

As for stock your testing will tell you when. Once your nitrile is at zero do a water change to help lower the nitrates. By then you should see brown algae on the sand and rock, that is diatoms and 100% common in new tanks. That is when you should invest in a cleanup crew:

Nassarius Snails - Sandbed Cleaners
Cernith Snails - Sandbed, Rock and Glass
Nerite Snails - Rock & Glass
Hermits if you want (I have had GREAT luck with the baha hermits from www.premiumaquatics.com)

After your 3rd week you "should" be ready to add a fish (I would add a fish first).

Any idea's with the fish you want to keep? Personally if you ever want a clown I would start with one, they are fairly hardy and colorful, stick to the True or False Percula species.

[McCrary]

Monitor your nitrites and wait until they are all converted to nitrates, then wait a little before doing any water changes. Then see if the nitrates are down and you don't have any ammonia. 1.026 is fine, but I like mine around 1.025 so that I have .001 in either direction. Don't worry about your pH, it should stabilize on its own, it isn't necessarily important that it be 8.3, but it should be stable. Get a refractometer as soon as possible, it can you save you a lot of trouble. I got mine off marinedepot.com. I like to add fish before coral, but people have done it either way.

[Bmgrocks]

I would also reccomend that you choose wisely with your LPS selection, alot of LPS can do fine under 3wpg, but not grow and get the good color you would expect if under higher wattage, this is most prevlant in your Euphillia species, torch, hammer and frogspawn. They simply don't have the best growth rates or color, If you plan on keeping them, place them high in the tank.

It looks good, as far as filtration I have a 12ap and 24ap, and weekly 2.5g on the 12, and 5g on the 24 keep my perameters stable, I also have a AquaClear 70 Fuge on both filled with Chaeto for nutrient export, it works wonders..Good Luck!

[lhoy]

I would recommend redoing the "rock wall" and do some searching here on aquascaping. It will help with detritus removal by improving flow behind the rocks. There are some great formations in tanks here on the site.

Hope you enjoy your Xmas gift!! Great start.

Lee

[snommisbor]

One test kit you should get is a KH. You fill to the line and put drops in until it changes from blue to a yellowish color. Count how many drops which should be from 9 to 12 before change. If it is for example 7 then you need to add some buffer. I use superbuffer by kent. About a half teaspoon a day until you get to were you want it. I run mine at 11-12 kh. Easy test and once you get your system going you really dont need to check nitrates or ammonia or nitrites as long as you maintain a good water change regiment. I change water in my 12 gal nano about every 2 to 3 weeks but I have just one fish so not a big bioload. I am going to try and pair my clown soon so I wil change about every 10 days. But once you get going buffer is about all you need for now. Later depending on what you get into which wont be anything hard like SPS because you dont have the lighting you will begin to add other things like iodine or calcium, but for basic mushrooms and stuff and some nano type fish buffer is all you need. Start simple then later rip your light canopy off, buy a clip on 150watt MH and put whatever you want in there: Clams, SPS most any type of coral. Thats what I did

[NanoCubeNewbie]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11507929#post11507929 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lhoy
I would recommend redoing the "rock wall" and do some searching here on aquascaping. It will help with detritus removal by improving flow behind the rocks. There are some great formations in tanks here on the site.

Hope you enjoy your Xmas gift!! Great start.

Lee

I thought there would be adequate flow behind the "rock wall" the way I have it stacked. Take second look at these pictures that show the area behind the wall and confirm or deny. Thanks!

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[mathias999us]

I think your aquascaping looks totally fine for flow. You may find that it may be difficult to place a lot of coral on it though, since it's so vertical. You may want to consider making some more flat shelves to place corals on. I think your approach to the aquascaping LOOKS cool though.

I think I would consider your lighting scheme to be a low-light tank. Species with low light requirements will do well. Species with medium lighting requirements may survive, but will not thrive. Species with high lighting requirements will die. Stick to lower-light species, and you will be a lot happier with the results (healthy low-light species sure beats mediocre results with medium-light species).

Agree with others - you want more flow.

A skimmer is by no means a requirement (and admittedly, a bit of a controversial subject), but most reef aquarists consider them to be an invaluable tool. You can get by without them fine with good husbandry skills and modest regular water changes, but a skimmer would just be another tool to further you to your goals of success.

Bmgrocks hit the nail on the head - the BEST thing you could do, which would be my next step if I were you, would be to incorporate a refugium with macro algae. He's right, it will work wonders for controlling nuisance growths of algae and other undesirables in the long run.

You've got the potential for a nice tank here, but keep your goals modest for this first tank. Choose hardy, low light corals, and you will have a tank that flourishes, and builds your confidence for more ambitious systems in the future.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Can I use and would you suggest using one of my back chambers as a refugium? And if so, where and how much chaeto would you suggest? Right now I have a black sponge taking up the whole first chamber, a bag of ceramic rings on the bottom, a bag of activated carbon in the middle and another black sponge on the top of the middle chamber and nothing but the pump in the last one.

Also, I am going to get some filter floss, where do you all suggest to put it? I've read that it should be the first thing the water filters through when entering the back of the tank.

Also, I checked my water again today. The API test kit I got checks for:
High Range PH
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate

Is this complete or will I also need to check for other things when I begin adding livestock? "snommisbor" has suggested to get an additional test to check the Kh. What is that? When is it necessary to check it?

Also, some of the colors of the water being tested in the test tubes are not like any color on the card to compare it to. I'm not sure how to address that. Anyone else have that problem?

As far as adding shelves for more coral, I think i'm going add just a few and then maybe something down in the sand like a clam. Not trying to have a really high bioload. But thanks for the suggestion.

I do plan on getting the MaxiJet 1200 and the Koralia Nano Powerhead as suggested previously.

Should I wait until all my tests are at zero before adding the clean up crew?

Thanks for all your advice and suggestions!

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I forgot to tell you what the levels tested at....

A week ago:
ph-7.8, ammonia-0, nitrite-0.50, nitrate-40

Today:
ph-7.8, amonia-0, nitrite-0.75 (up), nitrate-40

I should be expecting them to go up before coming down, right?

Is there anything I should add to the water to help the cycling process along?

What do you think of the levels so far? Are they were I should expect them to be after only a week?

The LR and SW were from existing tanks and the LS I bought was the kind with the water in the bag that was supposed to have all the beneficial things living in it.

How much longer do you think it will be before the number drop?

[mathias999us]

Yeah, you can use one of your back chambers as a fuge, but you have to get light in there somehow. That may involve modding the hood. Another option would possibly be a HOB fuge with a small hood mod. Believe me though, it will be worth it. A fuge is an EXCELLENT and natural nutrient export mechanism. You'll probably want to start off with enough chaeto to fill about half of your fuge, and once a week, or once every other week, tear a chunk out and throw it away (dispose of it "properly") so it is back to it's original size. This way, the chaeto is helping you "export" nutrients from your tank (in the material you throw away).

You'll find that everything is a controversy in reefkeeping, but I think a good number of people would agree with the following filtration scheme in your rear chambers:
Ditch the black sponges and ceramic rings. Carbon is optional. Some people like it, some don't. I'd personally keep it. So, first chamber should have live rock rubble stacked up, with some filter floss on the top. Floss should be replaced frequently, at least once per week. Second chamber could be your fuge, or you could put your heater and your carbon in there. Probably best to leave the pump by itself in the last chamber.

Those are good things to test for. Two additional tests I would highly recommend are alkalinity (this is the same thing as the KH test) and calcium. Regardless of whether you are keeping any calcifying corals in the tank, I would recommend that you keep your calcium and alkalinity at optimal levels for the healthiest tank. Supplement as necessary with adjustments, or 2 part additives.

For the bad colors on your tests, you're either doing something wrong, or using inappropriate (like FW only) or expired test kits.

You cannot put a clam in this tank, period.

You should wait until nitrite and amonia are both 0 before adding CUC. Only add patience to speed the cycling process ;). It's the most effective. Numbers look as expected. I personally, would wait at least 4 weeks before putting anything in, regardless of the numbers. This is a hobby of patience.... but, it's your $$$ to risk. ;)

(psst - be patient, and do it right from the beginning).

[NanoCubeNewbie]

If I change the stock pump to the maxi-jet 1200, can't I use the stock pump then in the main tank area as another way to move the water without purchasing the koralia nano?

Also, I have been reading that some people are using quilting batting as floss. What do you think?

[mathias999us]

If the stock pump came with an inlet strainer (not sure if they do on your tank), you *could* use it in the main tank. A koralia would be much better though, because it provides a higher volume/lower velocity flow, vs the powerhead, which provides a high velocity jet of flow, which isn't as desirable. Also, you may need to make a little mount for the stock pump. Suction cups will only last so long.

I've used polyester batting as a filter in my tanks for a long time with no ill effects observed, and so have others. Nice, cheap, but maybe not quite as effective as filter floss. Good enough for me.

[lhoy]

Yes, you look like you have space for good flow back there, but as Matthias stated, you don't have much space for corals. You have some awesome live rock with great opportunities for coral placement but the vertical orientation minimizes that. That rock should stack and mesh very well given the shape.

Hope it goes well.

Lee

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Thanks for all the great information!

Next time I test the levels in the water that look funny, I will take a picture to show what I'm talking about.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

A couple of questions, if you don't mind.

1. What kind of light is needed to grow chaeto?

2. Since my tank is just starting and still cycling, I thought about putting some in like a breading thing that still lets the water flow but sections an area off. I also saw people use a suction thing that is supposed to be used in ths sink to hold a sponge while it dries. Anyway I thought about putting this in the main tank while I decide how to modify one of the back chambers as a refugium. Would this work even temporarily?

3. Is it to soon to put some in my tank?

[NWBRADSHAW]

Learned some things here for my new tank...

[mathias999us]

Hey NC-Newb -

I've seen a variety of lights used for macroalgae. Some people even use incadescent bulbs. But, you'll probably get the best results with a 5600K to 6700K bulb. Even 10K bulbs should work, but probably not as effective as one of the lower color temperatures, as the lower temps spur algae growth, which is what you WANT for your fuge (encourage the algae you want, so it outcompetes the algae you don't want). I've also seen people use those little acrylic guppy breaders for a makeshift fuge in the main display. I believe this would probably work fairly well, but I haven't tried it. The disadvantage is that it will "clutter" your otherwise clean display, you can't run it on a reverse photo period, and your fuge won't get it's own bulb type that encourages algae growth. I have a 6 gal nano that I started at the beginning of december, and I may add a guppy breader with some chaeto myself...

I personally think you'd probably be fine adding some chaeto at this point. I don't believe it is very sensitive to nitrites. But some people might tell you that it will interfere with the cycle. Also, you should be able to find someone in your area who whill give you some for free. After all, people who use it are throwing chunks of it out on a regular basis ;) I threw away many piles of the stuff over the course of running my last tank before I moved.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Mathias - Thanks for your input and information, I really appreciate it! And I must say I just looked at your site with the pics of the long nano your building and it was awesome! I'm almost embarrased that your looking at what I'm doing, LOL. Beautiful tank man!

[SeaSerpant]

looks good so far. any updates?

[mathias999us]

Hi NCN - Nooo problem at all, SO glad to help.

Thanks very much, but don't be embarrased! :) You're off to a good start already for your first tank. The most important thing you can do right now, is listen to what people on this site tell you, even when it's not what you want to hear (like when someone says, you really should spend $300 on xyz, or you'll have problems). I learned that the hard way, hopefully you won't have to. Your tank will be awesome if you are patient, and listen to what others have to say. I've seen plenty of 24g JBJ cubes that will blow my tank away. :)

[NanoCubeNewbie]

UPDATE - Some coraline looking pink stuff is starting to grow. I got tired of waiting to stock it so I printed and cut out and taped on the front a few possible future inhabitants. There is also a lot little algae looking things growing and swaying in the current. I had a problem with the light this morning, but replaced the fuse and it's all good now. I was very worried for a few minutes though. I plan on getting a bigger pump and a power head this weekend. I also found this cool stuff at WalMart when I went to buy some batting to use as filter floss. Its batting, but its formed in like a seat cushion shape. about 2" thick and then 15" x 15". I measured the length and width of my first back chamber and cut some 2" rectangles that fit perfectly. I took out one of the black sponges and places 3 layers of this new product in its place. This is the first area the water hits. I will be able to replace it easily every week or so and is so inexpensive I couldn't believe it. By the way, if you plan to use this material, rinse it before you put it into the tank. I did not and there were little fibers swirling around for about an hour. Luckily there isn't anything alive in there yet. I am also using the surface skimmer attachement thingy that comes with the NanoCube. I will likely get a skimmer eventually, but not until or shortly after I insert some residence. That's all for now, more after the weekend.

[cerreta]

Just found your thread. Glad to see you in the hobby.

Most of your questions have been addressed, but i have a few suggestions for you.

Current lighting will support lps, softies, shrooms, and zoos. These animals are also a bit easier to care for. That is a great way to start in the hobby. Clams and sps require advanced skill and you will quickly be discouraged if you experience big losses so early in the hobby.

My favorite tank was a 90gallon softy. The movement of corals is awesome to watch. I delved into sps for the challenge and that it was. Learn more first. RC is a great source for that.

Speaking of movement, you need more flow. Look into the Tunze nano stream or Korallia pumps for flow.

I do not suggest adding light to the internal sump. The light back there will supprt lots of critter growth and internal chambers are difficult to clean. If you wish to add a separate fuge that would be fine.

I added light before to an internal sump and was very dissapointed, so just my experience, do what pleases you and monitor the effects. That is the best part of the hobby.

You should strive for SG of 1.025 +/- 0.001. This is close to NSW and corals thrive well at this level. If you experience infections like ich then you can safely drop SG to about 1.021 for a week to help rid the parasite. A little trick.

All incoming corals should be treated with a dip to ensure a healthy tank. Freshwater dips work great on mushroom corals and zoos. TMPCC or Lugols solution work well for hard corals. If you come to the Frag Swap we can teach you how to do this and we suggest that all people that buy/trade corals treat the new specimens to prevent community infections. Read some threads on coral treatment and dipping.

The Phoenix group is quite large and had an epidemic with AFEW resulting from all the local trading and additive stress of corals. Best to pretreat all incoming specimens.

The best advise I can offer fellow aquarists is this:

1. Have a plan and keep a log. (I can send you a chem log) Decide what corals and what fish to keep. Make a list and buy when you can, take your time, and modify the plan as your knowledge advances.

2. Perform weekly water changes. Nothing works better than manually exporting the bad and importing fresh nutrients.

3. Maintain exceptional water quality. Everyone says it, few describe it. Specifically you need to monitor Alkalinity and Calcium weekly, once the tank is established. If you can maintain a stable Alk of 10 dKH and a Calcium of >450 then nitrite, nitrate, PO4, Mg, pH, etc will all be within normal parameters. This took me years to learn and once learned is still difficult to achieve in a nano tank because these two parameters flux daily as your corals consume these nutrients from the water.

Speaking of test kits, invest in higher quality kits. I recommend Salifert. You mentioned previously that you are having difficulty determining colors of your sample with the card. Try to avoid using kits like this. These are graduation tests.

Almost all Salifert kits are tiration tests. This includes alkalinity and Calcium, which you should purchase. The difference is that titration kits require you to add a solution until the endpoint is reached. At this point, the color of the solution changes. Regardless of the color it becomes, your test is done and it is absolute. There is no guesswork with titration tests. You get the result by comparing the level of reagent remaining in the syringe to a chart. Viola an exact value without guessing which color is closest to your sample, in which none of them really look right.

The Salifert Phosphate kit is a graduation test. I no longer use it and purchased a digital phosphate meter.

Have fun man!

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I was wondering if you could suggest a reputable place to buy these 2 new tests you speak of within the Tucson area. I was told when I bought my test kit that it would be all I would need. $36 dollars later I still need to test for 2 more things. Do you think I can buy the alkalinity and Calcium seperately? You mentioned a Salifert test kit. Maybe I should go ahead and upgrade to that. Where can I get it and how much should I expect to pay? And how much is a digital phosphate meter? By the way, the water I'm using is direct from the system at the LFS. I'm not sure if their water is actually a little high at 1.026 or this stupid junk hydrometer I bought from the same LFS is reading wrong. By the way, I went to this particular LFS because I was given 2 gift certificates to it for Christmas.

Keep the feedback and comments coming I really appreciate it!

[mathias999us]

1.026 is the SPG of natural sea water, and MANY people run their tanks at this level. There havn't been any studies that I'm aware of that indicate that we should run our tanks at any other salt concentration than that of natural sea water.

(Salifert is one of the most respected test kit brands. Expect to pay between $15 and $30 per test type. Calcium was like $25 last time I got one)

[NanoCubeNewbie]

The hydrometer I have has a whole range of numbers, but the one's between 1.024 and 1.020 are bright and bold and stand out like thats where the needle should point. I also thought I read that 1.024 is optimal. Well, atleast that is cleared up. Thanks!

[mathias999us]

I think people with FOWLR like to keep their tanks at a lower SPG because it discourages parasites, but when you're keeping corals and inverts, a higher SPG like that of natural sea water is better for pH, Calcium, Alk, and Mg levels.

[cerreta]

Locally test kits are rather expensive. Alk about $25 and Ca about $35-40.

You can buy them separately.

I would not try to replace the kit you have. You need it for the break in period. After your tank is established and you get your alk and Ca values up, then you will only be needing the other kits on rare occasion. Usually I check these other parameters about every 6 months out of boredom. They are always in check.

Two worthy online stores are Marine depot and Premium aquatics. The kits are $15 Alk and $22 for Ca. You can also buy some Oceans Blend 2 part for about $15-20 and the cost of shipping will still be less than what yo uwill pay locally.

Or, you can bring a sample of water over to my house and I will test everything. I can do it at the Frag Swap too, if you remind me to bring the kits.

The digital meter is about $200 and not worth the investment until your obsession grows. :)

Try to save your money to replace those stick-on corals :thumbsup:

Oh, btw, I use cheto as a natural filter floss instead of fiber floss. You may want to try this. I just throw out teh cheto and replace it (got a good source :) ) monthly just like floss. Only this is a more natural approach and the cheto is so tightly would that it serves as a great filter.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Well, I got some chaeto from "Zoa Keeper". It has so much cool stuff in it that I can hardly believe it! I took out almost all of my inorganic materials from the 3 chambers in the back. No more floss or sponges or ceramic rings or charcoal, etc. Now, in the first chamber I have my heater. In the bottom of the second there is some rubble rock and on top of that is the chaeto. In the 3rd is the pump and a small bag of Chemi-Pure. On the advice of many on here, I purchased and installed a Hydor Koralia Nano but I was unable to locate locally a Maxi-Jet 1200. I think for now I'll stick with what I've got and see if my first inhabitants like it or need more flow. I also got the rubble rock I mentioned and a cup of really lively sand from a highly recommended LFS. I guess the rock and sand I bought weren't what I was expecting and not what I thought I was buying. The new sand and rock had stuff crawling and living all over it, it was really cool to see, especially in my own tank. I also purchased "Kent Marine" part A & B Ion Buffer System liquid additive. Been using that in the evening when the lights are off. The coraline is still slow growing, but what looks like brown mucky stuff which I'm assuming is brown algae is everywhere. Not sure if I need the clean up crew yet or not. My levels are still not to zero and I'm closer to the beginning of the cycle than I originally thought. Anyone who has been keeping up with this thread has heard that I was having problems with the colors on my tests, so before I tell you what they were, take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. I will also be posting some updates of the now brownish rocks in the tank. Let me know what you think.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4684.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4687.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4686.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4683.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4682.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4681.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4677.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4676.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4674.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh229/NanoCubeNewbie/100_4671.jpg

[mathias999us]

Hey NCN -
I think you'll be fine without the maxijet for now, since you went ahead and got the koralia - keep it on the backburner as a future mod that's easy.

Your configuration on the sump chambers sounds quite good.

I think it's still too early to add CUC. My interpretations of your test kit results are ~20ppm nitrate, .25ppm nitrite, no or very little measurable amonia, 7.7 or 7.8 for pH. Looks like the cycle is progressing well. At the minimum, wait until the nitrite is undetectable before CUC. For your pH, it is a little low, but that's a VERY common problem. Don't worry too much yet. First get your Calcium and Alkalinity test kits. You can raise your alkalinity and pH at the same time with buffer. Need to know your alkalinity before you go adding buffer though.

Think the colors on the test kits look fine though, nothing funny going on. Keep it up, you're still on a good path.

[mathias999us]

One thing I forgot to ask, how are you getting light to the chaeto in the sump chamber?

[cerreta]

I think the measurements are what Mathias reports.
The algae looks like a cyano bloom. Is it slimy?

Try to manually remove it. If it is slime algae, you should have good luck siphoning it up and blasting it off with a turkey baster.

Looking good!

I can test your alk and ca if you need it. Send me a PM. LFSs can do it too for cheap, if not free.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Do you think I should try to blow it off or just leave it for the CUC to worry about? Some of it looks really slimy and some looks like thick, long dark hairs.

Thanks for looking at my test results and giving feedback. I know the tank is not ready and still cycling. Just wondering if I'm reading them the same way others might.

[cerreta]

That is too much work for the crew. Siphon up and manually pluck off what you can. Then blow off the remaining algae and let your filter remove the rest. Pick off that green filamentous algae too.

Before you blow off the algae, place a bit of that floss you have in the first section of the overflow. After the water clears in a few hours throw it away. This will keep your sump area clean.
Cheers

Manually removing the algaes will allow your tank to stabilize faster. Since you have no fish or coral at the moment, this is the best time to remove the problem.

If the slime algae becomes a problem, I have had good success with using Red Slimer Remover. Marine Depot sells it.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I currently have a small undercabinet, fluorescent light which I have encapsulated in a water proof tube and placed in the top of the back chambers. I plan to get a submersible fountain light since it is made to be waterproof. No need for a fish fry before I even get the fish in, lol.

I have once again rearranged the rocks and think I might finally be happy with the design. Since purchasing my original LR I have seen so many other neat looking rocks I wish I had. I'm not about to change out the one's in there now. No need to start the cycle over and the one's in there now have a bunch of little things living on them including dozens of little brittle starfish. I had one little white starfish but after stirring things up the last time, I haven't seen him :(. The new design is more of a pile in the middle of the tank and pretty evenly stacked away from all sides and the top. I've read that stacking too close to a side will lead to detrius build up and too close to the top won't allow for coral growth upwards.

My levels are at or very near 0. I added 2 blue and 2 red legged hermit crabs and 2 turbo and 2 nassarus snails. I will add some pictures shortly.