Suggested Mods for BC29?

[Bursa]

I am already planning on upgraded lighting (4x36w) and a 2nd chamber refugium with external LED lighting. Also going to go with a Rio 6HF return pump.

What are some of the other common mods and additions?

Thanks

[Bursa]

Anyone? Thanks!

[Mojo Jojo]

6HF works great! Maxi 900 or 1200 are other good options. If you have not done so yet, punch the floor on the first chamber. More room for heater, rubble, etc. I'd personally skip trying to keep the stock hood. Get a halide or a nice T5 fixture;)

[dileggi]

I added the heater without punching the hole in the floor. But, my heater is now visable! LOL!

Added protein skimmer and Koralia1. Have not upgraded the hood or return pump...yet!

[Bursa]

How big is the Koralia 1 when its in the BC29?

I was thinking of 2 Koralia Nanos instead.

Thoughts?

[hunkafish]

Bursa, I'm running two Nano Koralia's They put 0ut almost as much as the #1's and smaller. Potential problem that I'm experimenting with as I write is a heat problem. I have a Thread running on this issue. I don't know if its the stock return pump or the Nano's but I'll find out shortly. I just turned off the Nano's with a temp of almost 81 and the lights have been off all night with both lids open (A/C at 70). I also am evaluating wether to upgrade to the 4-36 watt upgrade but until I identify the heat source can't move. I am ordering another pump not sure witch one yet that's why I checked out this thread, because I'm right there with you Bursa. I'll ad you as buddy and keep you informed, pleas let me know of your successes and failures maybe with all can save some money for Corals and food.

[Bursa]

Hunka...thanks for the post. I will be following your tank as well!

[Bursa]

Anyone else?

[dileggi]

Hi Bursa,

I have to admit that the koralia1 is working great, but it certainly is visable. I don't have any experience with the nano koralia to help out any there. I do have a pic that I could send to show what the korlia1 one looks like in the tank. I just can't post it because the file is too large. I would have to e-mail it.


But, as hunkafish said in regards to his temp problem, I have not experienced any fluctuation in temp that was any different than before I added the koralia1.

So, do most people seem to do away with the stock hood and upgrade the lighting? I"m afraid to go hoodless because of the fish jumping. I've already had to cover the back chambers with egg crate after finding my clowns in the overflow and sump chambers more than once.

I know I could always put the egg crate over the tank, but I'm thinking that would be an eye sore?!
Any thoughts?

[Bursa]

You can buy black eggcrate, although it can be tricky to find. I have only seen it online and not at Home Depot or Lowes type places.

One of the reasons I like the stock hood is the streamlined look and less evaporation. True, it may hold more heat but Im willing to work with that.

[black_majik]

Almost every Rio pump i have used ( either at home or at the LFS) is trash. We had a rated 350 gph adn it couldn't reach the water level of the RSM. I'd avoid the Rios.

[slumpysix]

Here's a couple...
Clean out a factory filter media tray and just use some filter media in it and you will save money not buying them -- I have pictures in my gallery showing what to do.

make the water flow over from one to two larger for more flowage.

some use chemi-pure bags in either chamber 1 or 3 which I have done but small media bags with your own carbon works just as well.

I have done the 4.36 light mod from nanotuners and was easy to do -- I have pics thru my homepage house link.

added a MJ600 to the main tank on the back wall. can't even notice it anymore since coraline has completely covered it and the back as well.

kept the stock return pump.

added the sapphire skimmer.

tank temp stays between 78-80 during the winter. goes to about 81-82 in the summer. depends on room temperature I would imagine.

I have battled nitrates and the key to keeping them low is lotsa flow around the rock in the main tank and a thin sand bed. Mines about 1 1/2" depending on how much is moved by water and the pistol shrimp. That dude piles the sand up like crazy all over.

Algea on the glass is pretty much non-existant for the past 3-4 months.

I think that's a good start.

Jeff

[dileggi]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11571744#post11571744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slumpysix
Here's a couple...
Clean out a factory filter media tray and just use some filter media in it and you will save money not buying them -- I have pictures in my gallery showing what to do.

make the water flow over from one to two larger for more flowage.

some use chemi-pure bags in either chamber 1 or 3 which I have done but small media bags with your own carbon works just as well.

I have done the 4.36 light mod from nanotuners and was easy to do -- I have pics thru my homepage house link.

added a MJ600 to the main tank on the back wall. can't even notice it anymore since coraline has completely covered it and the back as well.

kept the stock return pump.

added the sapphire skimmer.

tank temp stays between 78-80 during the winter. goes to about 81-82 in the summer. depends on room temperature I would imagine.

I have battled nitrates and the key to keeping them low is lotsa flow around the rock in the main tank and a thin sand bed. Mines about 1 1/2" depending on how much is moved by water and the pistol shrimp. That dude piles the sand up like crazy all over.

Algea on the glass is pretty much non-existant for the past 3-4 months.

I think that's a good start.



Jeff

Thanks Jeff - I've been battling nitrates with mine as well. I'm in the process of getting rid of the bio balls. I'll try your suggestions as well.