Tank of the Month - November

[peterlin98]

A question on the photo period for Ryan Baker's awesome reef tank. He keeps photo period between noon and 8 PM (so that's 8 hours). I read in Daniel Knopp's book for clams that he too recommends photo period of 8 hours.
I have been running the light for 10 or 12 hours - for my benefit that I can view the tank before I go to work, and after work. But I'm starting to wonder if extended photo period would cause stress on the animals - especially clams?

[Legion]

First, its a really nice tank IMO.

Funny you mention the photoperiod, I had been running my AB 10k 175's for 10 hours and 210 actinic v.h.o.'s & 110 actinic p.c.'s for 10 hours together plus an extra hour before and after the halides. I have run them like this for 2 years now and really didnt have any problems with my corals/clams. I was in Myrtle bch last weekend and a good friend of mine had some before and after shots of his tank after changing his photoperiod w/ similar setup. He was running his about the same length as I was then cut back to 14 hours of actinic and 8 hours of halides. He did up the amount of actinic time but the softies, sps, and clams in his system had a noticably positive effect to the change. seeing the side by side comparison shots after 8 months of the different photo period convinced me to give it a try as well. *note* another side effect was an increase of coraline.

[Fjrb]

Hey :cool:

Very interesting indeed ...

Any chance of a link to those before and after shots ? I just made a question on the exact issue -- photoperiod length -- in this very forum, regarding July's winner, which used a mere 6 hours (no actinics even, mind you!) photoperiod. His tank surely looked above average and transpiring health.

Honestly all i ever seen gaining perfomance in extended period of lighting on anything involving liquids was micro algae. But because an owner really doesn't wish to in any way limit a coral's requirements, we usually tend to err on the upside.

I'd really wonder what would be the optimal setting, and it's interesting that amidst all the technical peraphernalia no one's ever got into this matter deeply.

I sure notice that when i keep a low photoperiod on my fully planted freshwaters the plants do great. When i do a long photoperiod, the algae do great (even when Co² injection is present.)

It seems as though the unicelular algae life really takes advantadge of extended photoperiods, while upper lifeforms such as vegetals and corals really don't need such an extended light exposure.

That they'd not only not need it, but actually outperform without it is indeed very interesting idea and definitely worth a further check.

[Legion]

I wish I had some of the pictures to show you. He dosent even have a digi cam ( spends to much on his tank:D ) these were just photos he had taken that he showed me while I was visiting.

[iconjs]

Hello Ryan. Let me first say that I hope someday my 135g tank can look half as good as yours..it is awesome! At the moment thoug, I am battling a red slime algae bloom and my question is about your skimmers. I just bought an ETSS 1000 skimmer and I am having a hard time finding the correct setting for it. I run it with an IWAKI 55RLT and I thought that might be a bit much too much for it but I noticed you use a 70RLT on one of yours. I was wondering if you might have any tips or suggestions on setting this skimmer up. I use the manufacturer's air valve to adjust the air bubbles to the smallest size possible but when I do this the air chamber (top chamber of skimmer above waste collector) fills up with water half way up and this seems to reduce the effectiveness of the skimmer by creating inconsistent airflow into the skimmer. I also set the water level as high as possible without letting wet foam into the collection chamber, but the "dry foam" only seems to get about 1 inch past the rim and stops. Anyway, I hope you have a suggestion becasue I tried calling the manufacturer and they werent too helpful. Thanks.

[rbaker]

Originally posted by peterlin98
A question on the photo period for Ryan Baker's awesome reef tank. He keeps photo period between noon and 8 PM (so that's 8 hours). I read in Daniel Knopp's book for clams that he too recommends photo period of 8 hours.
I have been running the light for 10 or 12 hours - for my benefit that I can view the tank before I go to work, and after work. But I'm starting to wonder if extended photo period would cause stress on the animals - especially clams?

Actually, the total photoperiod is 11 hours. The halides are only on for 8. I've tried running the halides longer but didn't see any difference in the coral growth or health...

Thanks,

Ryan

[rbaker]

Originally posted by iconjs
Hello Ryan. Let me first say that I hope someday my 135g tank can look half as good as yours..it is awesome! At the moment thoug, I am battling a red slime algae bloom and my question is about your skimmers. I just bought an ETSS 1000 skimmer and I am having a hard time finding the correct setting for it. I run it with an IWAKI 55RLT and I thought that might be a bit much too much for it but I noticed you use a 70RLT on one of yours. I was wondering if you might have any tips or suggestions on setting this skimmer up. I use the manufacturer's air valve to adjust the air bubbles to the smallest size possible but when I do this the air chamber (top chamber of skimmer above waste collector) fills up with water half way up and this seems to reduce the effectiveness of the skimmer by creating inconsistent airflow into the skimmer. I also set the water level as high as possible without letting wet foam into the collection chamber, but the "dry foam" only seems to get about 1 inch past the rim and stops. Anyway, I hope you have a suggestion becasue I tried calling the manufacturer and they werent too helpful. Thanks.



Iconjs,
Thanks for the compliment.:D

I'm not sure what to say about the skimmer adjustments. I've never had any problems with mine. I run the the water level about halfway up the main tube and this gets me plenty of dry foam in the cup. You might want to open the air valve up a little more and raise the water level. How long have you had it?

Thanks,

Ryan

[Fishiness?]

Ryan, beautiful tank, man!

I looking for a similar set up on my 75 gallon AGA RR. I also want to focus on LPS and softies with a few SPS. I am having some trouble figuring out the right lighting for this. How is the Aquaspace light? How did you mount it into your canopy? I'm thinking of DIY a 12" canopy.

Other suggestions for lighting this set up?

Looking at the 250W Dual Blue Wave VII HQI ballast with 2 of their HQI pendent reef Optix III plus and 2 250 W 10,000K AB double-ended HQI bulbs. Also, 220 W of VHO 03's off of an IceCap 660 ballast.

A PFO dual ballast is another option.

I definitely like the look of the HQI's.

I posted on the BB, but wanted your advice as well. Just in case you didn't see it.

So, the ball is yours...:D

Thanks, Andrew.

[Fishiness?]

Ryan, beautiful tank, man!

I looking for a similar set up on my 75 gallon AGA RR. I also want to focus on LPS and softies with a few SPS. I am having some trouble figuring out the right lighting for this. How is the Aquaspace light? How did you mount it into your canopy? I'm thinking of DIY a 12" canopy.

Other suggestions for lighting this set up?

Looking at the 250W Dual Blue Wave VII HQI ballast with 2 of their HQI pendent reef Optix III plus and 2 250 W 10,000K AB double-ended HQI bulbs. Also, 220 W of VHO 03's off of an IceCap 660 ballast.

A PFO dual ballast is another option.

I definitely like the look of the HQI's.

I posted on the BB, but wanted your advice as well. Just in case you didn't see it.

So, the ball is yours...:D

Thanks, Andrew.

[rbaker]

Fishiness,

Thanks...

I love the Aquaspace light. I did a ton of research before I purchased it and felt it was the best lighting I could buy for my tank.

The Aquaspace light is supported on both sides by a wooden slide I installed in the canopy. I can move the light from the front to the back easily.

HTH,

Ryan

[Fishiness?]

I'm leaning toward the 150 W Aquaspace light 48" over my 75 gallon. Partially because it's cheaper to run and also that it's equivalent to greater SE bulbs. I think that it will do fine for the 75 seeing that I'm focusing on LPS and softies with a few SPS's. What do you think?

Also, my wife says that the ceiling mount is out.:) So, I'm interested in DIY into the canopy. Similar to your set up. Couple of questions:

Is the top of your canopy totally enclosed? I'm thinking that I could install a flip-top similar to yours, but use a 1x2 after the hinges (leaving the rest of the back of the canopy open). This would allow for more heat to exit. I'd rather cover the hole top, but not sure if I would burn the house down?

Is the 'rest' that you used for the spacelight a 2x4 screwed on to the sides of your canopy?

Could you give me some details regarding the construction of your canopy (... with photos if possible :) )?

Thanks, Andrew.

[iconjs]

I've had the skimmer for about 3 months now and seem to be constantly adjusting it. If I open the air valve too much the water seems too turbulent to produce foam. Anyway, thanks for the response and keep up the good work.

[rbaker]

Originally posted by iconjs
I've had the skimmer for about 3 months now and seem to be constantly adjusting it. If I open the air valve too much the water seems too turbulent to produce foam. Anyway, thanks for the response and keep up the good work.

You might want to open the air valve up and give it a week or two. The water in my main tube is EXTREMELY turbulent.

HTH,

Ryan

[rbaker]

"I'm leaning toward the 150 W Aquaspace light 48" over my 75 gallon. Partially because it's cheaper to run and also that it's equivalent to greater SE bulbs. I think that it will do fine for the 75 seeing that I'm focusing on LPS and softies with a few SPS's. What do you think?"

I think you'll be very happy with your decision...

"Is the top of your canopy totally enclosed?"

yes


"Is the 'rest' that you used for the spacelight a 2x4 screwed on to the sides of your canopy?"

No, but 2x4's should work just fine...


"Could you give me some details regarding the construction of your canopy (... with photos if possible )?"

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you some pictures. :)

Ryan

[iconjs]

Thanks for your advice Ryan. I will try opening up the air valve and be patient while the skimmer does it's job. A couple of follow up questions:
1) Does your skimmer overflow after a feeding? mine does tremendously and usually turn it off for a couple of hours after a feeding
2) does the top chamber (where the "venturi" valve is) of your skimmer have water up to the air inlets?
Thanks again.

Gerardo
Naperville, IL

[Fishiness?]

Ryan,

Probably everyone else know what it is, but just wondering what the last coral on your 'tank of the month' page? A Feather Duster? It's beautiful.

Why did you opt for the 'sandless' base in your tank. IMO I want to see those crazy creatures that hide/turn over the DSB. I guess that it's just personal preference.

Cheers, Andrew.

[Skipper]

Hey Andrew. It's a Xenia.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-11/totm/images/XeniaSM.jpg

[rbaker]

Originally posted by iconjs
Thanks for your advice Ryan. I will try opening up the air valve and be patient while the skimmer does it's job. A couple of follow up questions:
1) Does your skimmer overflow after a feeding? mine does tremendously and usually turn it off for a couple of hours after a feeding
2) does the top chamber (where the "venturi" valve is) of your skimmer have water up to the air inlets?
Thanks again.

Gerardo
Naperville, IL


Actually, my skimmer usually goes flat when I feed... What kind of food are you feeding?

The water level is about a foot below the air inlets...

HTH,

Ryan

[rbaker]

Originally posted by Fishiness?
Ryan,

Probably everyone else know what it is, but just wondering what the last coral on your 'tank of the month' page? A Feather Duster? It's beautiful.

Why did you opt for the 'sandless' base in your tank. IMO I want to see those crazy creatures that hide/turn over the DSB. I guess that it's just personal preference.

Cheers, Andrew.


Skipper nailed it... It's a Xenia...

I've alway's run "bare bottom" with great success. I didn't see any reason to change. However, I have been debating on adding a thin layer of sand strictly for aesthetic reasons...

Thanks,

Ryan

[stgla]

Ryan, Amazing tank and setup. That's a lot of water!

I noticed you have a flame hawkfish and "a healthy population" of inverts, including peppermint and banded shrimps. Does the hawkfish try to snack on the shrimps?

[reefkeeper1]

I have a relatively new 150g, and I'm thinking of setting up a closed loop system with Sea-Swirls. Do you have any advice and resources I can check out on how to set up a closed loop system? Thanks for your help. You can check out my tank at www.reeftank.com (http://www.reeftank.com) .

Charles Lai
www.reeftank.com

[rbaker]

Originally posted by stgla
Ryan, Amazing tank and setup. That's a lot of water!

I noticed you have a flame hawkfish and "a healthy population" of inverts, including peppermint and banded shrimps. Does the hawkfish try to snack on the shrimps?

He's never eaten any inverts, but he recently killed a Citron Goby. Other than this one problem he's been a model citizen...

Ryan

[rbaker]

Originally posted by reefkeeper1
I have a relatively new 150g, and I'm thinking of setting up a closed loop system with Sea-Swirls. Do you have any advice and resources I can check out on how to set up a closed loop system? Thanks for your help. You can check out my tank at www.reeftank.com (http://www.reeftank.com) .

Charles Lai
www.reeftank.com


Charles,

A "closed loop" is fairly simple. All you need is a pump and some plumbing. You can drill a hole for your intake or you can simply come over the side of the tank. Then you run a return line from the pump back to your tank. It serves no purpose but to create circulation...

HTH,

Ryan

[stagedperformance]

Great tank, I'm working on getting mine to look as good as that.....slowly. I was wondering how you designed the returns in your main tank and the closed loop system? I'm trying to figure out a way to design everything so I don't have any "dead spots" in the main tank. I have had some bad algae problems that I think was attributed to bad circulation in certian parts of the tank. I want good circulation but I don't want powerheads everywhere!
Thanks,
Steve

[10acmd]

Hey Ryan!
Awesome tank! I'm in the process of setting up a similar tank in my new house which is under construction. My sump room will be in the basement below the display 200gal tank and therefore the water will drop about 15 feet or so into my sump/refug. I'm interested in detail specs on the construction of your DIY "baffle box" empting into your refug (great idea!!). Thanks, Kent

[rbaker]

Originally posted by stagedperformance
Great tank, I'm working on getting mine to look as good as that.....slowly. I was wondering how you designed the returns in your main tank and the closed loop system? I'm trying to figure out a way to design everything so I don't have any "dead spots" in the main tank. I have had some bad algae problems that I think was attributed to bad circulation in certian parts of the tank. I want good circulation but I don't want powerheads everywhere!
Thanks,
Steve

I designed the returns and the closed loop to create a very strong current across the back of the tank. I added the powerheads to make it swirl across the front of the tank. I tweaked the powerhead placement until there weren't any dead spots...

HTH,

Ryan

[rbaker]

Originally posted by 10acmd
Hey Ryan!
Awesome tank! I'm in the process of setting up a similar tank in my new house which is under construction. My sump room will be in the basement below the display 200gal tank and therefore the water will drop about 15 feet or so into my sump/refug. I'm interested in detail specs on the construction of your DIY "baffle box" empting into your refug (great idea!!). Thanks, Kent


Kent,

Thanks!!

The baffle is very simple. The PVC pipe comes thru the top of the box and forms a "U" at the bottom. I drilled 3- 2" holes at the bottom of the right side of the box. The water and bubbles are sent to the top of the box where the bubbles pop. The water leaves the box via the holes on the side. I got the idea from my downdraft skimmers

Ryan

[10acmd]

Ryan,
Thanks for the quick reply! The baffle box does sound simple and appears to eliminate the bubbles. Could you clarify the following: Looking at the picture of the box, what is that PVC pipe leaving the bottom? I assume the other PVC fitting on the lid is to allow the bubbles to escape?
Thanks,
Kent

[rbaker]

Originally posted by 10acmd
Ryan,
Thanks for the quick reply! The baffle box does sound simple and appears to eliminate the bubbles. Could you clarify the following: Looking at the picture of the box, what is that PVC pipe leaving the bottom? I assume the other PVC fitting on the lid is to allow the bubbles to escape?
Thanks,
Kent


The PVC under the box simply holds up the box...:) Yes, the fitting on the top of the box is where the air escapes...


Ryan