starting my new 29 build

[olmsted66]

Iv been working on this tank for about 2 months now. Adding parts as i find them. Currently on the build i have a regular 29 gallon with a corner overflow down to a 20 gallon sump. I rio 2100 supplies my return water through a 3/4 inch hole drilled in the center of the back of the tank. My lighting is a 175 watt metal halide 6500k with 1 possibly adding another .03 actinic 75 watt VHO. For filtration i am using a bak pak 2 skimmer with modified mj1200. I also have 2 4inch fans one in each side of the canopy. For water flow in the aquarium i have one mj900 modded with the sure flow 1600 kit which gives it 5 times more flow in a stream the same as a tunze. Also using 3 other mj900's controlled by a red sea wave master pro. For live rock i have an 30 gallon package ordered from richard at TBS. This should be coming in early next week hopefully. I will post pictures as soon as my digital camera works again or i get a new one hopefully soon. Any feedback would be helpful and much appreciated.

[reefman13]

Everything seems fine EXCEPT for the MH bulb. I would highly recomend getting either a 10K or 14K bulb before you start the tank. A 6500K bulb is only going to grow serious algea.

Corals also require a certain K rating from MH bulbs to grow right.

So thats my only thing.

Otherwise everything looks fine. I would just get those pictures up soon though:)

[mr pink floyd]

Corals will grow under 6500 also. The 6500 just makes things grow faster with its higher PAR(intensity of light) Theres algae in the corals too, so it just helps things grow. People attribute color temp to algae growth because they can never admit there is somethign wrong wih their tanks.

6500 is realyl yellow, and you wont see colors as you would with a 10, or even 14-20K bulb

because of where your rtrturn is drilled, all the water will backflow into the sump overflowing it. there really isnt a way to fix this instead of drilling another hole higher up towards the top and plugging this one

[puckbs]

put a check valve in your return line, that'll stop the possibility of back flow in the case of a power outtage....the downside being it will obviously cause a little bit of back pressure, how much i dont' know....hth

[olmsted66]

Ya the return is actually only about 5 inches below the water line sry forgot to specify. Im planning on putting a loc line connection on it and bending it toward the waterline a little more. Im also gonna adjust the water level in the sump to accomodate for any extra water coming from the main tank. Even though this will mean a little lower water level in the sump. And ya iv always used 10k bulbs before but the LFS sold this assembly to me used but it wont fire ushio bulbs thats why they sold it. They put in a new 6500k bulb and i didnt want to spend the extra cash for a 10 or 14k bulb with the bulb in it being brand new, but i have a feeling that it may change in the near future.

[puckbs]

not sure your experience, so forgive me if i'm stating the obvious....

i would set my tank up and running with just enough water in the sump....i would then mark that line...i would shut everything down to simulate power fail and then mark the height the water got to....then measure the distance between the two lines and then measure that number down from the top and add a little for good measure..and there is your fill line....

if stating the obvious for you, maybe that'll help someone else...good luck, can't wait to see pics

[olmsted66]

thanks ya i did the same thing on my 90 to set sump water level it worked great no water on the floor when power went out. will post pics of all equip and rock as soon as my TBS rock gets here. Cant wait prolly not the best time to order on thanksgiving weekend though.