sump idea to prevent overflows.

[DJ88©]

Ok if my image doesn't post don't laugh too hard.. First try at this. If it is here.. YAY! :D

ok..

I have been fiddling with designing a sump for my tanks that are already filled and AREN'T drilled for overflow(I know, I know, the rest I set up will be drilled). What I am wanting to do is minimize the amount of water the return pump has available to it. By compartmentalizing(creating words that sound good) the actual pump and letting it only really draw water from a portion of the sump not the whole sump. I am hoping my tank would only have to take in a gallon or two instead of twenty that would go to the floor. All of this incase the siphon fails or gets blocked.

If you follow the blue arrows they represent water flow throught the baffles, refugium area, heaters and finally into the actual pump area. The black lines represent the various walls, baffles.

How it works is that if water flow stops from the overflow the refugium and other areas will hold the water they already have(minature sumps within the sump). No water will flow over the various walls etc. In effect creating the pumps own little space of water it can pump out and no more. I am figuring out a micro-switch idea to shut the pump off after it has removed all of its water so it doesn't run dry for too long and burn out.

Anyone try something like this? If so, how did it work? Any suggestions would be apreciated. :) :) :) And any questions, don't hesitate.. They make me think more. And the more thought into this the better it should work(I hope).

I will be using a glass tank for the actual frame then using lexan for the inner walls, baffles, overflows etc. By using differnt wall heights I want to direct where the water flows next. Not where it wants to. My fingers are crossed.

DJ

http://www.geocities.com/darren0469/sumpjpg.jpg



[Edited by DJ88 on 11-28-2000 at 05:48 PM]

[Q-ball]

Hiya DJ, the only problem that I can with this is evaporation. Your water level will only go down in the last area that the pump is actually in, & if the water volume in that section is small, the water level in that area will drop quickly. I built my sump out of a 20g Long and did it in similar fashion...the water level drops an inch for every 2qts that evaporates. So, if you aren't paying attention to it, the water level can drop to the point where your pump will throw bubbles into the tank, and eventually if you don't catch it the pump will run dry which is a bad thing. This is the only problem I've run into with mine, as long as you keep up with the evaporation it'll be fine. HTH

Q!!!

[DJ88©]

I was thinking about how to ensure a greater flow throught all of the areas and what I plan on doing is having it all with a tiered system(like a fish ladder for salmon). Having each step a bit lower than the other and letting gravity keep it moving. By having the highest level at the overflow's tube into the sump I am sure that my flow will be adequate. As well I am going to try and keep the normal water level for the pump at several inches above the intake for the pump. Or else using an external pump that sucks through a bulkhead on the side of the tank near the bottom.

To minimize evaporation I am planning on partially sealing(not permanent) the top area. Just enclosing some of it with a thin sheet of lexan or plexi. Cooling fans are another thought. That work?

This will all be enclosed under the stand and will be on a reverse lighting schedule.

One worry of mine is an inadequate flow through the sections. I am going to kee these sections to a minimum. Four max. Pump, heaters, refugium and baffles and filterbag area.

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it.

DJ